THE HANDLING OF THE PLANTS 



119 



planted, only the upper bud projects above the ground. 

 They may be planted erect, as Fig. 122 shows, or somewhat 

 slanting. In order that the cutting may reach down to 

 moist earth, it is desirable that it should not be less than 6 

 in. long ; and it is sometimes better if it is 8 to 12 in. If the 

 wood is short-jointed, there may be several 

 buds on a cutting of this length; and in order 

 to prevent too many shoots from arising from 

 these buds the lowermost buds are often cut 

 out. Roots will start as readily if the lower 

 buds are removed, since the buds grow into 

 shoots and not into roots. 



Cuttings of currants, grapes, gooseberries, 

 and the like may be set in rows that are far 

 enough apart to admit of easy tillage either 

 with horse or hand tools, and the cuttings may 

 be placed 3 to 8 in. apart in the row. The 

 English varieties of gooseberries, considerably grown in this 

 country, do not propagate readily from cuttings. 



After the cuttings have grown one season, the plants are usu- 

 ally transplanted and given more room for the second year's 

 growth, after which time they are ready to be set in permanent 

 plantations. In some cases, the plants are set at the end of the 

 first year; but two-year plants are stronger and usually prefer- 

 able. 



123. Carnation 

 cutting. 



Cuttings of roots. 



Root-cuttings are used for blackberries, raspberries, and a 

 few other things. They are ordinarily made of roots from the 

 size of a lead pencil to one's little finger, and are cut in lengths 

 from 3 to 5 in. long. The cuttings are stored the same as 

 stem-cuttings and allowed to callous. In the spring they are 

 planted in a horizontal or nearly horizontal position in moist 

 sandy soil, being entirely covered to a depth of 1 or 2 in. 



