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MANUAL OF GARDENING 



Rosa rugosa. This has not only attractive flowers through the greater 

 part of the season, but it also has very interesting foliage and a striking 

 habit. The great profusion of bristles and spines gives it an individual 

 and strong character. Even without the flowers, it is valuable to add 

 character and cast to a foliage mass. The foUage is not attacked by 

 insects or fungi, but remains green and glossy throughout the year. 

 The fruit is also very large and showy, and persists on bushes well 

 through the winter. Some of the wild roses are also verj^ excellent 

 for mixing into foliage masses, but, as a rule, their foliage character- 

 istics are rather weak, and they are liable to be attacked by thrips. 



There are so many classes of roses that the intending planter is 

 likely to be confused unless he knows what they are. Different classes 

 require different treatment. Some of them, as the teas and hybrid 

 perpetuals (the latter also known as remontants), bloom from new 

 canes; while the rugosa, the Austrian, Harrison's yellow, sweet briers, 

 and some others are bushes and do not renew themselves each year 

 from the crown or bas9S of the canes. 



The outdoor roses may be divided into two great groups so far as 

 their blooming habit is involved: (1) The continuous or intermittent 

 bloomers, as the hybrid perpetuals (blooming chiefly in June), bour- 

 bons, tea, rugosa, the teas and hybrid teas being the most continuous 

 in bloom; (2) those' that bloom once only, in summer, as Austrian, 

 Ayrshire, sweet briers, prairie, Cherokee, Banksian, provence, most 

 moss roses, damask, multiflora, polyantha, and memorial {Wichura- 

 iana). "Perpetual" or recurrent-blooming races have been developed 

 in the Ayrshire, moss, polyantha, and others. 



While roses delight in a sunny exposure, nevertheless our dry at- 

 mosphere and hot summers are sometimes trying on the flowers, as are 

 severe wintrv winds on the plants. AVhile, therefore, it is never ad- 

 visable to plant roses near large trees, or where they will be over- 

 shadowed by buildings or surrounding shrubbery, some shade during 

 the heat of the day will be a benefit. The best position is an eastern 

 or northern slope, and where fences or other objects will break the 

 force of strong winds, in those sections where such prevail. 



Roses should be carefully taken up every four or five years, tops and 

 roots cut in, and then reset, either in a new place or in the old, after 

 enriching the soil with a fresh supply of manure, and deeply spading 



