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MANUAL OF GARDENING 



emulsion. It must be treated very early, before the worm 

 gets far into the head (p. 200). 



The club-root or stump-root is a fungous disease for which 

 there is no good remedy. Use new land if the disease is present 

 (p.208). 



Solanaceous group — Tomato, egg-plant, red pepper. 



These are warm-weather plants, very impatient of frost. 

 They are all natives of southern zones, and have not yet become 

 so far acclimatized in the North as not to need the benefit of 

 our longest seasons. 



Plants should be started early, under glass. They should be 

 '^pricked off," when the second leaves appear, 3 or 4 inches 

 apart, into flats or boxes. These boxes should be kept in a 

 coldframe, to which an abundance of light and air is admitted 

 on warm, sunny days, in order to harden them off. After all 

 danger of frost is past, and the garden soil is well warmed,- the 

 plants may be finally transplanted. 



If the ground is too rich, these plants are likely to grow too 

 late in the northern seasons. 



Cucurbitaceous group — Cucumber, melon, squash, pumpkin. 



All the members of this group are very tender to frost, and they 

 must not be planted till the season is thoroughly open and 

 settled. The plants are not transplanted, unless they are trans- 

 ferred from boxes or pots. 



Seeds must be planted somewhat shallow from early spring 

 to midsummer. For the earliest cucumbers and melons, seeds 

 are planted in frames. That is, each hill is inclosed by a port- 

 able box frame about 3 feet square and usually having a 

 movable sash cover. The cover is raised or removed in warm 

 days, and the frame bodily taken away when all danger of frost 

 is past. In field culture, seeds are planted an inch deep, four 

 to six in a hill, with hills 4 by 6 feet apart, these distances 



