PRUNING 



often develop, or even another pair. To secure these 

 branches near the ground it is therefore necessary to cut 

 it first to within a few inches of the ground, and then to 

 cut down the shoots which come in consequence of this 

 cut, close to the parent stem, and so on. This forces the 

 growth of stiff, stocky plants — ^just what one does not 

 want in flowering shrubs, though it is highly desirable 

 in a hedge. 



Removing the first pair of axillary buds below the 

 terminal bud will start the next lower pair into growth 

 usually, while the removal of buds or small branches all 

 down along a stem will stimulate the growth at its apex. 

 In this way a plant's general growth may be directed 

 towards a certain ideal form from its infancy, with never 

 a bit of w'aste in its vitality or in the time required to 

 arrive at the ideal. 



Never be in a hurry to prune branches from any- 

 thing, either old or new, until much experience has been 

 your teacher; but when spring warmth awakens sleep- 

 ing buds and they bestir themselves and come forth, 

 if their intentions do not seem to be in accord with the 

 plant's best form and its best interest, wipe them gently 

 out of existence with a gloved thumb — if the naked 

 thumb is too tender. Nowhere is the struggle for 

 existence keener and fiercer than in the vegetable king- 

 dom. Always aim to reduce this struggle as much as 

 possible, as early as possible — to nip it in the bud, 

 literally. 



This is the chief reason for pruning, ordinarily; 

 the principle of it is always to relieve the plant by 



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