ROPAGATION WITHOUT SEEDS 



the winter to callous. This callus is very necessary and 

 unless it forms, no roots will appear. It is occasioned 

 by the swelling of the inner bark at the severed end or 

 base of the cutting; this gradually rolls out and over 

 the entire raw or cut surface, covering it with new tissue 

 in practically the same way that the wound left on a tree 

 by pruning off a branch, is covered. Usually this takes 

 from two to three months, and cuttings are sometimes 

 prepared thus, long before they are to be set into the 

 ground. On the other hand, they may be taken from 

 the parent plant in the fall and set immediately, out-of- 

 doors. 



Ripe cuttings should be 6 to 8 inches long and 

 should contain never less than two buds or two pair of 

 buds — and there is no harm in having a dozen. The 

 cut at the bottom does not have to be made immediately 

 below a bud, though it is well to have it come at such a 

 point. It should slant however, in order to furnish as 

 broad a diameter as possible for the sending forth of 

 roots. Rub off all except the upper bud or pair of buds, 

 and plant with a dibble, just as a seedling is planted. 

 Never thrust a cutting forcibly into the ground just 

 because it is easy to do so; they should be set carefully 

 and treated quite the same as a rooted plant in this 

 respect. Place them two inches apart and set them deep 

 so that only the remaining upper bud or pair of buds is 

 just above the surface. Firm them by tramping, and 

 mulch them heavily before cold weather sets in. 



Hardened cuttings — that is, cuttings of growing 

 wood which is old enough to be hard without being 



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