^84 



GARDEN GUIDE 



under a strong, bright sun. In addition to the trunming given to 

 balance the root injury, now is a good time to cut out any dead branches 

 and clean up the shape and condition of the specimen. 



Transplanting Fruit Trees 



This operation is practically the same as that described for shrubs 

 except that as fruits are rarely moved when large, the dormant, early 

 Spring or late Fall method is the one most commonly used. It is at 

 these times that fruit trees are shipped from the nurseries. The 

 pruning of newly set fruit trees is generally more severe than that of 

 shrubs or ornamentals as it is usually desirable to determine the form 

 and arrangement of the head at this time. This means cutting back 

 the main stem, removing all the side branches but three or four sym- 

 metrically arranged around it so that they will not develop weak 

 crotches, and cut these back to a length of six inches or so. Peaches, 

 according to one system of training, are cut back to a single, branch- 

 less stem or "whip" when planted. 



Another important point in planting fruit trees is their correct 

 alignment. Of course this is more important in a large orchard than 

 in the home fruit garden, but even here straight, evenly spaced rows 

 make a good appearance; moreover they permit the most economical 

 use of the space. The place where each tree should stand must there- 

 fore be accurately located either by sighting through a transit or farm 

 level, or by careful measuring, then the tree must be set right there. 

 One of the best ways to assure this result is to use a planting board. 

 This is a plank about five feet long and a few inches wide with three 

 notches cut into it along one side — one near either end and one in the 

 middle. When the spot for each tree is located and marked with a 

 stake, the board is placed with the center notch against the first stake 

 and two other pins are stuck in the ground where the other notches are. 

 The board and the central peg are then removed and the hole dug 

 without removing the two guide stakes. When it is deep enough the 

 board is placed back against the two pegs, the tree placed in the hole 

 and its trunk placed in the center notch just where the locating peg 

 originally stood. By keeping the tree in this position until the hole is 

 filled it is assured of its exact place. 



In some parts of the country transplanted fruit trees have to be 

 protected against the depredations of field mice, rabbits, etc., that 

 gnaw the bark off the trunks. This is best done by encircling each tree 

 with a guard or protector of thin wood veneer, wire netting or stiff 

 building paper, although there are various old recipes for whitewashes 

 and evil-smelhng mixtures of mud, manures, carbolic acid, etc., 

 designed to repel attacking rodents. 



