1834. 



CHANGE OF SCENERY — COLD. 



341 



across, the deep channel being extremely narrow, not more 

 than twenty yards in width. 



The distinct difference between the opposite banks of the 

 river had been diminishing, until at this spot^ both sides wer^ 

 much alike. We had left the cliffs and salt water, and had 

 fairly entered the fresh-water river. Instead of having a wide 

 extent of dismal-looking banks and dark-coloured muddy 

 shores, we were at the side of a rapid stream, unvarying in 

 width, on whose banks shrubs and grass agreeably relieved our 

 eyes from muddy shingle covered with hosts of crabs. 



Our first night passed well, for there were plenty of bushes 

 to supply us with fire- wood. Early next morning, some of the 

 party went upon the nearest hills to look for guanacoes, when 

 they saw that although the surface of the country appeared to 

 an observer near the river to be irregular and hilly, upon 

 ascending the heights it became apparent that the stream ran 

 in a large valley ; that the general character of the country 

 was similar to what I have already described, and that those 

 which had appeared to be hills were the terminating sides of 

 extensive plains, whose level was about three hundred feet 

 above the river. Near the fresh water, shrubs, bushes, and 

 grass were not scarce; but every where on the higher ground 

 a sterile, stony waste met the eye. Mr. Stokes-)- and I went on 

 the heights, to obtain a view of the river ; and for a considerable 

 distance we could trace its windings, but were sorry to see a 

 great number of small islands, thickly covered with brushwood^ 

 which seemed likely to impede our progress if obliged to track J 

 the boats. 



The southerly wind blew keenly over the high land, and 

 the surface of the ground was frozen hard ; but the air was 

 healthily fresh and bracing. Where, indeed, could it be purer 

 than on these dry hills ? At first setting out we tried the 

 oars, but very soon found them unable to contend with the 



* The northern bight, or cove, a few miles north-eastward of Islet 

 Reach. 



t It was his office to make a map of the country we passed through. 

 X Pull, or tow them along by a rope. 



