CHAPTER XIX. 



Mocha — Movement of Land — Penco — Ulloa — Shells — Coal — Maule — 

 Topocalma — Aconcagua — Valparaiso — Horcon — Papudo — Pichi- 

 danque — Conchali — Herradura — Coquimbo — Wreck — Challenger — 

 Blonde — Ride — Estate — Colcura — Villagran — Arauco — Former 

 caciques — Colocolo— Caupolican — Scenery — Quiapo — Night travel- 

 ling— Leubu — Tucapel — Valdivia — Lautaro — Challenger. 



When the Beagle entered Concepcion Bay, she had only 

 one heavy anchor left, having broken or lost the others ; and 

 as there were none fit for her at Talcahuano, it became abso- 

 lutely necessary to go to Valparaiso : accordingly, on the 7th 

 of March we left the melancholy rains and their disconsolate 

 tenants, and on the 11th dropped our only anchor at Valpa- 

 raiso. There our wants were soon supplied, and we sailed on 

 the 17th to revisit Concepcion. 



From the 27th the time was occupied in surveying the neigh- 

 bourhood of Concepcion, Arauco Bay, the island of Santa 

 Maria, and Mocha, until the 17th of April. 



Mocha is a prominent land-mark for navigators, but dan- 

 gerous rocks lie about its south-west quarter, and as the cur- 

 rent usually sets northward, a ship ought to beware of them. 

 Previous to the eighteenth century it was inhabited by Arau- 

 canian Indians, but they were driven away by the Spaniards ; 

 and since that time a few stray animals have been the only 

 permanent tenants. Most of the early voyagers speak of it. 

 We found the anchorage indifferent, the landing bad, and no 

 supplies to be obtained except wood, and, with much difficulty, 

 water. 



Our duties were greatly forwarded while about Concepcion, 

 by the earnest and very kind assistance of the yntendente, Don 

 Jose Alemparte ; and the active friendliness of Mr. Rouse, the 

 British consul. Though their houses were levelled, and they 

 themselves without any of what most Englishmen would call 

 comfort, we were received and attended to by them and the 



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