434 



COLCURA — GOBERNADOR — HORSES. 



June 



which we were obliged to lead our horses, we ascended the 

 heights of Colcura. For our reward, after a muddy scramble 

 up to the top of a steep hill, we looked down upon a fine though 

 but partially wooded country, forming an agreeable succession 

 of valleys and high grounds ; while to seaward there was an 

 extensive view of the coast, with the island of Santa Maria in 

 the distance. 



Perched on a height overlooking the sea, and directly above 

 a very snug little anchorage, is the hamlet called Colcura ; and 

 thither we hastened, inattentive to the complaints of our guide 

 (who was likewise guardian of the horses), and trusting to 

 Vogelborg's recollection of the road. Riding into a sort of field 

 entrenchment at the top of Colcura hill, we were accosted by 

 a sly-looking, sharp-visaged character, whose party-coloured 

 jacket appeared to show that its owner held some office of a 

 military nature, but whether that of ' cabo,"** or a higher, I 

 could not determine vmtil I heard him say he could give 

 us a good meal, and that he had three fine horses near the 

 house ; when at once styling him ' gobernador** I rebuked my- 

 self for having thought ill of his physiognomy, and proceeded 

 to unsaddle. Disappointed, however, by a scanty bad meal, we 

 thought to regain our tempers upon the backs of our host"'s 

 horses ; but not an animal had he sent for ; nor, to our further 

 vexation, could any inducement tempt him to lend one o~ 

 those fine horses, which, he still said, were close by. The In- 

 dians, he declared, were expected daily; he knew not the 

 moment he might have to fly for his life; on no condition 

 would he lend a horse : no, not if a fleet of ships were wrecked, 

 and I were to offer him an ounce of gold for each mile that his 

 horse should carry me. 



Every Chilian residing on the frontier endeavours to keep 

 by him a good horse, on which to escape, in case of a sudder^ 

 attack of the Indians ; for, as they never give quarter, and 

 approach at a gallop, it is highly necessary to be always pre 

 pared. Those who can afford to do so, keep horses solely for 

 the purpose of escape, which are the finest and the swiftest 

 they can procure. I remember hearing, that when General 



* Corporal. 



