1835. 



GTIANARY BAD TRAVELLING. 



445 



much they may plague others. Sometimes there is a sort of bed- 

 stead, and a slight partition for the older people ; but the others 

 take their rest upon the raised part of the floor, wrapped in sheep- 

 skins, or goat-skins, and rough woollen clothes. A large heap 

 of potatoes occupies one corner of the hut, and another is filled 

 by a granary, curiously contrived with stakes about six feet in 

 length, driven into the ground in a circle of perhaps six feet 

 diameter. Rough wicker-work unites the stakes, and forms a 

 bottom about half a foot from the ground. Straw is then 

 inserted into the wattled-work, until there is enough to prevent 

 any corn from falling through. This large fixed basket is filled 

 at harvest time, and supplies the family during the whole year : 

 neither rat or mouse can get at it without making a rustling 

 noise, which instantly alarms each cat and dog. 



Before our host returned with horses it was evening. He 

 would have detained us until the next morning, could his 

 arguments have availed, but finding that with or without him, 

 on we were resolved to go, he set out at a good pace towards 

 Leiibu. Less rain and wind encouraged hopes of a fine night, 

 so we trotted or galloped along while day-light lasted, but as 

 the night grew dark rain again poured down : and, obliged 

 then to go slowly, we followed one another as close as pos- 

 sible, placing the guide in front with a white poncho. While 

 in the open country we got on pretty well, but, after two 

 hours easy work, we found that the track was taking us 

 through thick woods. My first intimation of the change was 

 being nearly knocked off my horse by the bough of a tree, 

 so pitchy dark was the night ; and after this I kept my head 

 on the horse's neck, trusting to his eyes entirely, for I 

 could see nothing. That our guide could find the way has 

 been matter of astonishment to me ever since : he never failed 

 once. Some of the defiles through which he led were knee- 

 deep in clayey mud, so stiff that the horses could hardly 

 move. Often we were set fast in such places, obliged to get 

 off, and feel for the track, — knee-deep, and up to our elbows 

 in mud, — for it was upon hands and knees that we went, 

 oftener than upon our legs. Our guide knew we were in the 



