CHAPTER XX. 



Challenger sails — Sounds off Mocha — Wrecked on the main-land — Crew 

 saved — Stores landed — Camp formed — Great exertions and excellent 

 conduct — Mr. Consul Rouse — Leiibu— Plague of mice — Curious rats — 

 Return to Blonde — Ulpu — Araucanian dress — Arauco — ' Boroanos' — 

 Tubul — Bar rivers — Apples — Ferry — Blonde sails — Seek for the 

 Leiibu — Schooner Carmen — Errors and delay — Embark Challenger's 

 crew — Rescue the Carmen — Talcahuano — New Concepcion — Valpa- 

 raiso — Coquirabo — Challenger's sail in Conway — Reflections. 



The Challenger sailed from Rio de Janeiro on the 3d of 

 April 1835 : she had much bad weather off Cape Horn, which 

 lengthened her passage considerably. 



On the 18th and 19th of May, strong north-west winds, with 

 thick weather and heavy rain, prevented observations being 

 taken ; except a few for time only. The ship was approaching 

 the land, and her position estimated by dead reckoning from 

 the last observations. 



At five P.M. on the 19th, the Challenger hove-to, bent 

 cables, unstowed the anchors, and sounded, but no bottom was 

 found with two hundred and ten fathoms of line. This sound- 

 ing was taken as a matter of form rather than utility, for no 

 one supposed that the ship could be less than fifty miles from 

 a steep coast, off which soundings extend a very little way. At 

 this time, she was really about twelve miles from Mocha, which 

 bore from S.E. to S. The weather was clear overhead, but too 

 hazy near the horizon to see land, or any object distant more 

 than four or five miles. Mocha is high, bold land, which in 

 clear weather may be seen at thirty, forty, or even fifty miles 

 distance ; but soundings are no guide in its neighbourhood. 

 They are irregular, and indeed not to be got, except very near 

 the land. 



A course was shaped for passing Santa Maria, and approach- 

 ing the entrance of Concepcion Bay ; and with a strong wind 

 from W.N.W., the ship ran eight or nine knots an hour, under 

 treble-reefed topsails, courses, and jib, steering N.b.E. until 



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