542 



GOOt) FEELING PILOTAGE. 



Nov. 



I ever witnessed. To me it was a beautiful miniature view of 

 a nation emerging from heathen ignorance, and modestly set- 

 ting forth their claims to be considered civilized and Christian. 



We afterwards dined with Mr. Pritchard, his family, and 

 the two chiefs, Utaame and Taati. The behaviour of these 

 worthies was extremely good ; and it was very gratifying to 

 hear so much said in their favour by those whose long residence 

 on the island had enabled them to form a correct judgment. 

 What we heard and saw showed us that mutual feelings of 

 esteem existed between those respectable and influential old 

 chieftains and the missionary families. 



It was quite dark when we left Papiete to return, by many 

 miles among coral reefs, to the Beagle ; but our cat-eyed pilot 

 undertook to guide our three boats safely through intricate 

 passages among the reefs, between which I could hardly find 

 my way in broad daylight, even after having passed them several 

 times. The distance to the ship was about four miles ; and the 

 night so dark, that the boats were obliged almost to touch each 

 other to ensure safety ; yet they arrived on board unhurt, con- 

 trary to my expectation ; for my eyes could not detect any 

 reason for altering our course every few minutes, neither could 

 those of any other person, except the pilot, James Mitchell. 

 Had he made a mistake of even a few yards, among so many 

 intricate windings, our boats must have suffered (because the 

 coral rocks are very sharp and soon split a plank), though in 

 such smooth and shallow water, a wrong turning could have 

 caused inconvenience only to ourselves, for there was little or no 

 danger of more than a wetting. 



The observations at Matavai being completed, I was enabled 

 to leave the place, and invited Hitote and Mr. Henry (who had 

 returned with us) to pay another visit to Papiete in the Beagle, 

 and meet the royal party. 



25th. At dayliglit this morning, while the Beagle^s crew were 

 unmooring and hoisting in the boats, I went to Mr. Wilson"'s 

 school-house, then used also as a chapel — the old chapel having 

 been blown down by a violent gale of wind. Divine service 

 (a hymn, a long extempore prayer, and another hymn) was 



