390 



PROVINCE OF PERNAMBUCO. 



©nee. They are said to be more expert divers and swimmers than the men, 

 and it is not rare to see parties of them swimming about with much confidence, 

 their hair being generally neatly dressed and bound up. One evening, on ap- 

 proaching the banks of the river beyond Monteiro, with Mr. Ray, some females 

 were bathing, and amongs,t them were an old gentleman and his young wife, 

 with whom Mr. R. was acquainted. We took off our hats, and the compliment 

 was very cordially returned by the whole party, by a low dip in the water ; on 

 repassing a considerable time afterwards we observed them still enjoying this re- 

 freshing amusement. Previously to my leaving Ponta de Cho, the premier chuvas 

 (first rains) were setting in, and the river already conveyed many canoes with 

 families -and their furniture on the return. The heaviest rains begin about 

 March, when this part of the country is partially inundated and forsaken till 

 the dry season recommences. There are various religious festivals during the 

 holidays at different churches, in honour of saints. Those that appeared to 

 attract the most attention were at the church of the Mount at Ollinda, at St. 

 Araaro, and the P090 de Panela ; to the latter, the English subscribed a certain 

 sura each. Many people were assembled, and the houses were dedicated to 

 the purposes of gambling. The multitude seemed to loiter about without any 

 object, and there was a deadness and want of spirit and gaiety in their general 

 demeanor. The church was open, which I entered in the midst of the cere- 

 mony of christening a child ; a large lighted wax candle was as quickly intro- 

 duced into my hand, and I was thus enlisted into the ranks. A band of music 

 was playing in the gallery, to dissipate the shrill notes of the youngster, who 

 was fingered rather roughly by the padre in the course of various ceremonies 

 he performed, and in which he applied a considerable portion of salt. When 

 the infant, after undergoing the last form of having a silver crown placed upon 

 its head, was returned to its mother, it appeared quite exhausted ; and a pretty 

 general round of embracing concluded the ceremony. The master of the festa, 

 and his wife and daughters were there : the females were splendidly dressed, 

 but the absence of the graces prevented these adornments from having their 

 due effect upon the imagination. The fireworks supplied by the subscription, 

 and which concluded this festival, were, I understood, very indifferent. 



The Christmas holidays are deemed by the merchants a great interruption to 

 commerce, as no shipments can be made or business transacted during that 

 period. The English establishments here amount to sixteen, and through their 

 medium this province is supplied with every species of English manufactures. 

 They labour, as has been previously stated, under considerable difficulties, in 



