PLANTING, SOWING, AND CULTIVATING. 



439 



in the end of March and April. Cauliflowers, onions, and turnips, will be 

 clear from July to September ; the cauliflowers and shallots, &c., in July; 

 — for autumn, spinach and endive ; the onions for winter spinach, and the 

 turnips for spring onions, winter lettuce, and other secondary crops. 

 Spinach, endive, and spring onions will be clear by the end of May for 

 savoys, winter greens, red cabbage, cauliflowers, and leeks, all of which 

 require a moderate coat of manure. Savoys, winter greens, red cabbage, 

 &c., will be ready for early potatoes in April and May. Potatoes will 

 make way in July and August for turnips, spring cabbage, late broccoli, and 

 such crops, if wanted. Turnips, cabbage, broccoli, may be cleared in May 

 for celery, and cardoon trenches — if all the ground is wanted ; but if not, 

 the cabbage may be allowed to remain for sprouts during all the summer. 

 The intermediate spaces between the trenches may be planted with lettuce, 

 or any other secondary crops ; dung must be given for celery, of course. 

 Celery and similar crops will in part make way in autumn, when the ground 

 should be ridged up for winter, and the remainder as soon as the entire crop 

 is clear ; the ground wUl then be ready for French beans, scarlet runners, 

 cauliflowers, cucumbers, and tomatoes, in the end of April or beginning of 

 May. French beans will be clear by November, when the ground should 

 be again ridged up all winter to be ready for peas and beans, as at first 

 begun. This will make eight or ten years between the return of the prin- 

 cipal crops to the same place j and by judicious management of the secondary 

 crops (925) among the rotation crops, every space of ground between one 

 crop and the other may be occupied to advantage during the intervals of 

 cropping. — {Gard. Chron. for 1841, p. 180.) 



Sect. III. Planting, Sowing, Cultivating, and Managing. 



927. In general all crops should be planted or sown in rows from south 

 to north, in order, as already observed (723), that the sun may shine on 

 every part of the soU between the rows, and equally on every side of the 

 plants in the row. Beds, also, such as those of asparagus, should be made 

 in the same direction and for the same reasons. When asparagus, sea-kale, 

 and rhubarb are to be forced in the open garden by hot dung, the alleys or 

 paths between the beds should be of double the usual width, and all the 

 beds intended to be subjected to a course of forcing should be placed toge- 

 ther. The secondary perennial crops, such as mint, thyme, sage, savory, 

 perennial marjoram, rue, &c., should always be planted together, and in an 

 open airy situation, and not, as is frequently the case, in the shade. 



928. Managemmt of the fruit-tree borders. — The wall-borders, the 

 borders in which the espaliers are planted, and the ground among planta- 

 tions of fruit-shrubs or fruit-trees, should on no account be cropped or even 

 deeply dug, for reasons which we need not repeat. The soil may be loosened 

 on the surface in spring with a three-pronged fork, and in autumn a top- 

 dressing of putrescent manure may be given and slightly turned in with the 

 spade, or left on the surface till the spring-stirring. If the borders are 

 narrow, and the trees, after having filled it with their roots, appear to 

 require additional nourishment, a trench may be cut along the front of the 

 wall-border next the walk, three feet or four feet in width, and of such 

 a depth as to cut through all the roots, not, however, deeper than eighteen 

 inches. A part of the soil taken out of the trench may be removed alto- 

 gether, and a . rich compost of rotten dung and leaf-mould mixed with the 



