476 



CULTURE OF THE PEACH UNDER GLASS 



the outside, where it may extend ten feet or twelve feet from the front 

 wall. The usual depth in medium soils and situations is from two feet to 

 three and a half feet ; but eighteen inches, or two feet, is much safer, for 

 reasons before given (886). The bottom should be previously thoroughly 

 drained, and covered with a stratum of gravel, broken bricks, or other 

 similar materials, to conduct away superfluous water. The best soil is a 

 fresh loam from an old pasture, mixed with numerous fragments of free- 

 stone (828). No stable-dung need be added, unless the soil should be 

 considered poor. " The peach," Mr. Errington remarks, " as well as most 

 other tender fruit-trees, is planted in borders far too deep as well as too 

 rich." The borders should be pointed and forked up after pruning, and a 

 little well-rotted dung or compost added where deemed necessary. The 

 part of the borders on the outside may, in addition, be covered with dung ; 

 and, after forcing is commenced, those in the inside may be occasionally 

 watered with liquid manure ; but no manure whatever is required till such 

 time as the trees are in a bearing state. 



998. General treatment, — From the rise of the sap, it occupies, in some 

 sorts, about four months to make mature fruit ; in the later varieties, five 

 months ; and, when much of winter is included in the course of forcing, the 

 time is proportionally lengthened. To ripen moderately early kinds by the 

 end of May, begin to force on the 21st of December. Little is gained by 

 commencing sooner. Abercrombie directs to begin with a temperature of 

 42° minimum, 45*^ maximum, from sun-heat ; and rise in a fortnight to 45** 

 minimum, SO*' maximum, from sun-heat, giving plenty of air ; in the pro- 

 gress of the second fortnight, augment the temperature from three to eight 

 degrees, so as to have it at the close up to 53" minimum, 56° maximum, from 

 sun-heat, admitting air in some degree daily. When the trees are in blos- 

 som, let the heat be 55° minimum, 60° maximum. Continue to aim at this 

 till the fruit is set and swelling. When the fruit is set, raise the minimum 

 to 60°, the artificial maximum to 65°, in order to give fresh air ; when the 

 sun shines, do not let the maximum, from collected heat, pass 70°, rather 

 employing the opportunity to admit a free circulation of air. A constant 

 stream of fresh air is to be admitted before beginning to force, and plenty of 

 air during sunshine throughout the whole progress of forcing. While the 

 fruit is in blossom, steaming the flues or hot-waterpipes must be substituted 

 for watering overhead ; at the same time, the roots may be watered now 

 and then gently, avoiding such a copious supply as might risk the dropping 

 of the fruit to be set. An important point to be attended to in watering is, 

 as we have seen (823), to let the water be warmed to the same temperature 

 as the air of the house. When the fruit is ripening, its flavour is improved 

 by direct exposure to the sun and air, by the removal of the glass, at least 

 during the day. When it is quite ripe, the border should be covered with 

 moss, or some soft substance, or nets suspended under the trees, to prevent 

 those which drop off from being bruised ; but the best flavour is obtained 

 by gathering the fruit a day before it is dead ripe, and ripening it for twenty 

 or thirty hours in the fruit- room. 



999. Insects and diseases. — The red spider is the grand enemy to the 

 peach-tree ; but it is also attacked by mildew, the aphis, thrips, chermes, 

 and sometimes even by the coccus. Their ravages become apparent by the 

 leaves curling up, and often by the ends of the shoots becoming bunched 

 and clammy, which retards their shooting. In this case it is advisable to 



