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FORCING THE PEACH. 479 



composition is carefully applied with a painter s soft brush whilst it is milk- 

 warm. The process of cleaning should never be omitted at the pruning 

 season, as it prevents the trees ever contracting the brown scale. When 

 the trees are tied to the trellis, the borders must be dug ; this gives the 

 house a clean and neat appearance. 



1011. Forcing in February. — " In the first week in February the house is 

 shut up every night, and plenty of air given in the day ; in the beginning of 

 the second week, moderate fires are made, just to keep the heat by fire from 

 45" to 50", not exceeding 70° of sun heat ; in the third week, the fire heat is 

 gradually increased from 50" to 55°, and not exceeding 75" sun heat. By 

 this time the trees will be getting into blossom. Whilst they are in bloom 

 I neither sprinkle nor steam the house, for I consider that sufficient moisture 

 arises from the earth in the house at this stage of forcing. I admit plenty 

 of air every day, when the wind is mild, and in a favourable quarter. 

 " When the petals have all dropped, and the fruit is fairly set, 1 give the 

 trees a gentle syringing on a fine morning, with clean water, and if any green 

 flies appear, they have two or three sraokings with tobacco, as directed 

 before ; this will totally destroy the insects. 



1012. March.' — " At this period (March) particular attention must be paid 

 to the regularity of heat, which may be progressively increased a degree or 

 two as the season advances, but I do not allow it to exceed the last-named 

 temperature until the fruit is perfectly stoned, when I increase it from 55" to 

 60° at night, and from 77° to 80° of sun heat. At the medium of these the 

 temperature should continue during the remainmg part of the season. 



1013. Thinning the shoots and fruit. — " Attention must be paid to the thin- 

 ning of the young shoots, as directed in the first year's management, and 

 when the young fruit are about the size of damsons, they should then be 

 moderately thinned for the first time, leaving a sufficiency for selecting a 

 full crop by subsequent thinnings, which should be performed at two or 

 more different periods. 



1014. Stoning. — " It is to be observed that a few days before, and a few days 

 after, the crops begin to stone, is the most critical period in forcing, and if 

 strict attention is not paid at that time to the due regulation of heat, and to 

 the free admission of air at all opportunities, a great portion of the fruit will 

 fall off. I have often seen three parts of the crops of peaches and nectarines 

 thus lost. 



1015. Watering. — " The borders within the house must be occasionally 

 watered, after the stoning, until the fruit has arrived at full size, and begins 

 to change colour, then all watering should be left off, both with the syringe 

 and on the borders. 



1010. Ripening. — " When this crop of fruit begins to ripen, which will be 

 about the second week in July, I gradually expose the house to the open 

 air on fine and dry days, by drawing down the lights as much as convenient 

 in the day, and shutting them again in the evening. It is this which gives 

 the fruit both flavour and colour. 



1017. Duration of the Crop. — " This crop thus produced furnishes the table 

 from the second week in July until the middle of August, then a second 

 house should become ripe, and continue to yield a supply until the fruit 

 comes in on the open wall. The above practice is the result of many years' 

 elxperience." — {Hort. Trans. ^ vol. v., p. 62.) 



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