164 



TOWN OF QUILLOTA. 



in South America^) gave them a very sombre 

 appearance^ particularly as they cover their 

 heads with a large shawl of the same colour. 

 It was singular to observe the contrast of the 

 great huge stirrup of Chili, which was a mere 

 large block of wood^ with a hole hollowed out to 

 rest the foot in^ while those of the Pampas were 

 the smallest triangle of bent wood^ just sufficient 

 to admit the great toe. We stopped at the end 

 of the town to bait our horses and mules^ and 

 proceeded on again, through the plain, till five 

 o'clock, when finding the mules so very tired 

 that it would be impossible for them to reach 

 Valparaiso that night, we procured a guide 

 for ourselves, and left them in charge of our 

 arriero to follow the next morning. To give an 

 idea of the natives' calculation of distance, the 

 guide informed us that we were only two leagues 

 from the Port,^ but to our mortification we found 

 it full five, and a very bad road ; having to cross 

 over torrents, rocks, and precipices; the conse- 

 quence was my companion's horse knocked up, 

 ^ Valparaiso. 



