274 



CHAPTER XI. 



Seasons for Crossing the Cordillera — Hints to Travellers — 

 Peculiarities of the Natives of the Pampas — How to Gain 

 their Goodwill — Reasons for Travelling so Rapidly — Di- 

 rections for Preserving the Skin in a Hot Sun or Cold Wind 

 — Ladies of Buenos Ayres Compared with those of Lima, 

 Chili, &C.- — Description of a Pampero — Washer-women of 

 Buenos Ayres — Religion at Buenos Ayres Compared with 

 Peru — Eifects of Distributing the Bible in Peru — Descrip- 

 tion of South American Houses. 



Having thus completed two distinct journies 

 across the vast plains of South America and 

 Great Cordillera of the Andes, at two different 

 seasons of the year^ at a time when the latter is 

 admitted by all travellers and natives of the 

 country^ to be most dangerous to pass — that is, 

 the very depth of winter, when the journey is 

 obliged to be undertaken on foot, so that it is 



