Jan. 1830. ueturn from cape Gloucester. 



377 



inoffensive ; but they seemed very distrustful of us, and, before 

 sun-rise next morning, were all gone except one man. These 

 natives seemed to be very active and went up the mountain in 

 about half the time that our party required. They had two 

 canoes with them, but how they had reached this place by 

 water was puzzling, when the exposed bay they must have 

 crossed and the prevailing weather were considered. Perhaps 

 they had carried their canoes overland, being rather like the 

 Chilote piraguas, made of boards sewed together. 



" 8th. We heard the voices of the Fuegians at day-break 

 this morning ; but at four o'clock only one old man remained, 

 who was probably left to watch us. We began our return, 

 rather stiff from previous days' exertions, and looking dismally 

 at the high rugged hills between the Beagle and ourselves. The 

 first ascent on our way back was the worst of all : how the men 

 carried their cargo so well astonished me, for with a very light 

 load I was glad to rest frequently. Breakfast revived us, and 

 by taking afterwards a better line we avoided the steepest hills 

 and found much easier walking. While resting at our meal 

 the weather was so clear that I got bearings of Cape Inman 

 and other points more than fifty miles distant. There was very 

 little variety or novelty in this walk through a Fuegian island. 

 The same kind of scenery and the same species of plants and 

 shrubs were found which we had seen every where else in 

 Tierra del Fuego. Being more or less rocky made the only 

 change. Of quadrupeds, excepting otters and dogs, I saw no 

 traces, nor do I think any were to be found. A large kind of 

 snipe, by some called a woodcock, and quails, of a large and, I 

 think, peculiar species, were often seen and shot. The latter 

 are not by any means so well tasted as the European quail, 

 and their flesh is darker and coarser. At seven this evening we 

 were again on board the Beagle, not a little tired. 



" Should any future voyager feel inclined to make a similar 

 excursion towards Cape Gloucester, he had better not think 

 too lightly of his task. 



" 9th. Mr< Murray returned, having been into many open- 

 ings between the islands to the eastward, and having collected 



