64 



amateur's vineey calendar. 



of the young shoots, raise the night temperature to 60°; 

 and if they have the appearance of a sort of compro- 

 mise betwixt a fruit-bud and a tendril, discontinue the 

 supply of moisture to the atmosphere, and raise the 

 temperature to 65°. This is a very critical stage with 

 vines whose wood has not been w^ell ripened, and that 

 is, in consequence, prone to show tendrils instead of 

 bunches. The only chance of saving the crop is to give 

 a high dry temperature. On the other hand, when the 

 vines have been well ripened the previous year, the 

 embryo bunches show themselves with the flower-buds 

 well individualised, and there is little danger of their 

 running off into claspers. This being the case, a 

 moderate degree of moisture should be kept up from 

 the steaming-tray. As soon as the shoots have run out, 

 so that their points can be pinched off at two joints 

 beyond the bunch, let it be done with care, so as not to 

 injure the young leaves that are left. I recommend 

 that, as soon as the best-shaped bunches can be dis- 

 tinguished, all but one on a shoot should be taken off 

 at once. This can generally be done when the shoots 

 are stopped or pinched. ^Yhen the young shoots have 

 become sufficiently woody to stand bending down to 

 the wires, get them tied down carefully. Small lateral 

 growths will start at each joint of the young shoots; these 

 should be pinched, so as to leave one joint. Some leave 

 no joint, but pinch off close. I have known this cause 

 the proper eyes of the shoot to start, which is an evil. 

 By the time the bunches are in bloom let the night heat 

 be 70°, and keep the atmosphere dry. 



As soon as the berries are set, cut off all the bunches 

 except those required for the crop at once. Any other 

 course is a waste of sap, which will all be needed. It 

 is difficult to give directions as to the number of bunches 



