THE SECOND YEAR's TREATMENT. 29 



to be fruited the second year, must have tlieir laterals 

 stopped at one leaf, and tlieir leading shoots also 

 stopped when they have grown 12 feet or so. This 

 will plump their fruit-buds, and prepare them for 

 fruiting the second year. As the season advances, and 

 they get foliage developed, the temperature should 

 rise, till in May it has reached 70° by fire-heat at 

 night, and it may be run up with sun to 85° or 90°. In 

 giving air, let it be at the top of the house in the first 

 part of the day ; then, as the heat from the sun in- 

 creases, admit a little at the front, but with great care 

 in cold weather where there are no means such as I 

 have previously described for heating it. As the season 

 advances, say in August, give abundance of air in all 

 directions. This will help to make the wood hard and 

 brown ; but be careful of the foliage till it decays 

 naturally. The diseases and attacks from insects, to 

 which vines are liable, as well as the best means of 

 preventing their ravages, will be treated of in subse- 

 quent chapters. 



THE SECOND YEAR's TREATMENT. 



This begins with the cutting back of the vines, say 

 in December ; and in the case of those that are not to 

 bear fruit, they may be cut to within 3 feet of the 

 bottom of the rafter, where only one rod is to be grown 

 from each vine ; where two or more rods are to be 

 grown from one, cut them to within 18 inches of the soil; 

 those that are to fruit the second year may be left 8 

 feet long, and be allowed to bear eight bunches each, 

 supposing them to have made canes H inches in cir- 

 cumference, and that the wood is well ripened and short 

 jointed, with the buds or eyes prominent. This done, 



