56 



TOWN OF SAN LUIS. 



and the sun was nearly setting without any appear- 

 ance of houses, but as the lower edge touched the 

 horizon, we discovered a hut, and riding up to it, 

 we were informed by a little girl that we were near 

 San Luis. We got to the post just as it was dark, 

 and eagerly inquired of the wild group if there was 

 an inn in the town. No hai ! Senor ; no hai !"" 

 We then inquired for beds. " No hai ! Senor ; no 

 hai !' — " Is there a cafe ?" " No hai ! Senor," in 

 exactly the same tone of voice. When we looked 

 round us we found nothing but bare walls and fleas. 

 We happened (that day) to have English saddles, 

 and we therefore began to ask again about beds. 

 The woman told us we should have hers, and in a 

 few moments she brought mattress and all rolled 

 up, and laid it down on the floor ; however, when 

 I cast my eyes on the blanket, and above all the 

 sheets, I begged in the most earnest manner, that 

 she would let me have something a little cleaner. 

 " Son limpias," (they are clean) said the woman, 

 taking up the sheet, and pointing to a little spot 

 which looked whiter than the rest. There was no 

 use in arguing the point, so I walked out of the 

 hut, leaving the corner of the sheet in the woman's 



