THE PAMPAS. 



their horses among biscacheros, which would break 

 in with the weight of a man. 



When I got to El Morro I resolved to wait there 

 for the carriage, for I had the keys of my portman- 

 teau, and both I and my party wanted money. El 

 Morro consists of a few mud huts, as usual without 

 windows ; and as I stood at the door of the post- 

 room no human being was to be seen, except occa- 

 sionally a woman with her hand or poncho shading 

 off the sun from her head as she crossed the broad 

 irregular street which divided the huts from each 

 other : here and there a horse was seen tied to the 

 outside of a hut, and a little tame ostrich was be- 

 fore the door running after flies : the atmosphere 

 was quivering with the heat, and resounding with 

 the shrill cry of millions of flies enjoying the sun. 

 There were no trees to be seen, and neither fruit 

 nor flowers to be had. I went to the woman of 

 the post to ask what she had got to eat : Nada 

 (nothing), Senor/' she replied. I asked for se- 

 veral things which, from seeing a church and a 

 small congregation of huts, I thought might have 

 been been procured, but I received the usual an- 

 swer, No hai/"* and I was obliged to send out for 



