SHIELD BUDDING 



379 



such a direction that it may grow outward or upward, and 

 push it in far enough so that the bark of the stock completely 

 envelops it. 



The cambium tissues are thus together as in graftage. Tie 

 the bud securely above and below with raffia. (Fine, soft cord 

 or elastic will do.) 



Subsequent Treatment, In- 

 spect the bud in about two 

 weeks. If union has taken 

 place, cut the raffia on the 

 side away from the bud to pre- 

 vent girdling. If the union has 

 failed, there may still be time 

 to repeat the operation. If 

 notj whip grafting may be em- 

 ployed the following spring. 



The bud will remain dor- 

 mant until the following 

 spring. At that time cut off 

 the stock above the bud. The 

 bud will push out quickly into 

 a vigorous shoot which may be 

 trained to the desired form. 



Top-Working Peach Trees, 

 Peach trees in the orchard 

 may best be worked over by 

 budding. The wood of the 

 peach is too soft and splits too 

 readily to graft well. Cut back 

 the top to force the develop- 

 ment of new shoots near the base of the main branches. Bud 

 these shoots in late summer. 



Budding Nursery Trees, The nurseryman may use shield 

 budding on his seedling stocks in late summer instead of whip 

 grafting them (Fig. 150). In fact, the former is the more 

 common practice at the present time and is the sole practice 



{N. J. Exp. Sta.) 



Fig. 149. Shield budding, (a) 

 Bud stick, method of holding stick 

 and knife to cut bud shown below. 

 (b) The incision on the stock, 

 (c and d) Views of the bud. id) At 

 right shows wood removed, not 

 necessary in ordinary budding of 

 fruit trees, (e) The bud inserted. 

 (/) The bud tied in place with 

 raffia. 



