SECURING THE PLANTS 



533 



and the black raspberry, the heavier types. The terms are 

 relative, and there are gradations and overlappings that make 

 it difficult to set limits beyond the necessity of thorough drain- 

 age and friability, superior moisture-holding capacity, and 

 abundant fertility. It is possible, however, to overdo the 

 fertility factor, producing excessive growth that does not 

 mature properly and is thus subject to more than the usual 

 danger from winter killing. 



3. Determining the Time of Planting. Plant in early 

 spring. Fall planting for some members of the group will meet 

 with success, especially in the southern reaches of the indus- 

 try, but best results on the whole come from spring planting. 

 This is especially true of the black raspberry. Protect fall-set 

 plants during the first winter by mounding the soil about the 

 canes. 



4. Securing the Plants. The red raspberry throws suckers 

 or young plants from the roots of the parent plants. They 

 may be seen in early spring coming up everywhere along the 

 rows. The most destructive diseases of this fruit at the present 

 time are the virus diseases or mosaics. Unless it is known 

 beyond question that the plantation is free from these diseases, 

 no plants should be taken from it. It is much better to pur- 

 chase certified stock from reliable nurserymen or growers who 

 have followed rigidly the requirements for certification. One- 

 year shoots are best, but new sprouts may be used. In the 

 latter case, take up the plants with a few inches of the parent 

 root attached. Do the work on a cloudy day and keep the 

 plants out of the ground the shortest possible time. 



The black raspberry roots from the tips of the parent canes 

 which bend over in late summer until they make contact with 

 the soil. The process is known as tip layering. If the soil is 

 loose and moist, roots soon develop. If a large number of 

 plants is desired, it is best to assist nature not only by provid- 

 ing a favorable soil medium, but also by throwing a little soil 

 on the end of the cane, thus holding the tip in place until it 

 becomes established. A late cultivation will usually accom- 



