LOW-POWER WOKK 



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and crisp image. Perhaps, on looking at the picture, it may be brown, although it 

 appeared most beautifully black in the dark room. This is mostly due to one fault — 

 over-exposure : remedy, try half the time. If, however, there is still a brownness, 

 although the print is evidently under-exposed, the operator has made some mistake 

 in the mixture of the solutions or has forgotten to shake up the soda solution before 

 using. It may be here stated that this developing solution can be used over and 

 over again on the same evening, taking care to add equal parts of soda and hydro- 

 quinone to fill up the deficiency which will take place after developing each print. 

 Browning or greying of the print which is properly exposed may sometimes arise from 

 neglecting to keep up the strength of the solutions. 



Having washed the print for fifteen to twenty minutes in running water it is 

 thrown upon a piece of polished plate glass prepared as follows : Well wash first with 

 soap and water to clean off all grease or dirt, thoroughly wipe with a clean towel and 

 give as much polish as possible. Take a plug of wool, dip it in powdered French 

 chalk, and rub over the surface of the glass, wiping off the superfluous amount with 

 two or three, not twelve or thirteen, rubs of a handkerchief rolled into a pad. By 

 this means it will be understood an injinitesimally thin layer of French chalk really 

 remains upon the glass ; if too little perhaps the print will finally stick ; if too much 

 the thick portions will leave little dents and ridges on the print. The print being 

 taken out of the water is laid to drain for a few seconds, and then thrown on to the 

 glass, being held gently by the first finger and thumb, a squeegee being passed over 

 the whole, not with heavy pressure, however, or it may injure the delicate surface of 

 the print, but with sufficient pressure to squeeze out the air between the print and 

 the glass. Let the glass be lifted up and looked at in a strong light. No bubbles 

 between the print and the glass should be seen. If there are the print must be 

 squeegeed again ; if not, it can be left six hours to dry. In winter it may need ten 

 or twelve ; in summer three or four, but no artificial heat of any kind must be 

 employed ; if it is, the gelatin surface of the Nikko will assuredly melt, and nothing 

 but hot soap and water will remove it from the glass. When we wish to peel off the 

 print take a knife and raise one edge, pulling the print rather than wrenching it off 

 backwards. If cracked lines appear all over the surface it is because the paper has 

 been bent backwards too much in pulling off. We mention this because it took us 

 some time to find out the cause of the trouble. If it is desired to mount the print on 

 a card it should be smeared over the back whilst wet on the plate with a solution 

 sold by the Eastman Company for the purpose, such purpose being to prevent the 

 moisture of the mounting medium getting through the substance of the paper, which 



