48 



MALDONADO. 



1832-3. 



mountains. It is of the usual symmetrical form ; and .with 

 its whitewashed church standing in the centre^ had rather a 

 pretty appearance. The outskirting houses rose out of the 

 plain like isolated beings^ without the accompaniment of 

 gardens or courtyards. This is generally the case in the 

 country^ and all the houses have^ in consequence^ an uncom- 

 fortable aspect. At night we stopped at a pulperia^ or 

 drinking-shop. During the evening a great number of 

 Gauchos came in to drink spirits and smoke cigars : their 

 appearance is very striking; they are generally tall and 

 handsome^ but with a proud and dissolute expression of 

 countenance. They frequently wear their moustaches^ and 

 long black hair curling down their backs. With their 

 brightly-coloured garments^ great spurs clanking about their 

 heels^ and knives stuck as daggers (and often so used) 

 at their waists^ they look a very different race of men from 

 what might be expected from their name of Gauchos^ or 

 simple countrymen. Their politeness is excessive : they 

 never drink their spirits without expecting you to taste 

 it; but whilst making their exceedingly graceful bow, 

 they seem quite as ready, if occasion offered, to cut your 

 throat. 



On the third day we pursued rather an irregular course, as 

 I was employed in examining some beds of marble. On the 

 fine plains of turf we saw many ostriches [Strut hio Rhea). 

 Some of the flocks contained as many as twenty or thirty 

 birds. These, when standing on any little eminence, and 

 seen against the clear sky, presented a very noble appear- 

 ance. I never met with such tame ostriches in any other 

 part of the country : it was easy to gallop up within a short 

 distance of them; but then, expanding their wings, they 

 made all sail right before the wind, and soon left the horse 

 astern. 



At night we came to the house of Don Juan Fuentes, a 

 rich landed proprietor, but not personally known to either 

 of my companions. On approaching the house of a stranger, 

 it is usual to follow several little pieces of etiquette : riding 



