1832-3. 



MALDONADO. 



49 



up slowly to the door^ the salutation of Ave Maria* is given, 

 and until somebody comes out^ and asks you to alight, it is 

 not customary even to get off your horse. Having entered 

 the house, some general conversation is kept up for a few 

 minutes, till permission is asked to pass the night there. 

 This is granted as a matter of course. The stranger then 

 takes his meals with the family, and a room is assigned him, 

 where with the horsecloths belonging to his recado (or saddle 

 of the Pampas) he makes his bed. It is curious how similar 

 circumstances produce such similar results in manners. At 

 the Cape of Good Hope the same hospitality, and very 

 nearly the same points of etiquette, are universally observed. 

 The difference, however, between the character of the 

 Spaniard and that of the Dutch boor is shown, by the 

 former never asking his guest a single question beyond the 

 strictest rule of politeness, whilst the honest Dutchman 

 demands where he has been, where he is going, what is his 

 business, and even how many brothers, sisters, or children 

 he may happen to have. 



Shortly after our arrival at Don Juan's, one of the large 

 herds of cattle was driven in towards the house, and three 

 beasts were picked out to be slaughtered for the supply of 

 the establishment. These half-wild cattle are very active ; 

 and knowing full well the fatal lazo, they led the horses a long 

 and laborious chase. After witnessing the rude wealth dis- 

 played in the number of cattle, men, and horses, Don Juan's 

 miserable house was quite curious. The floor consisted of 

 hardened mud, and the windows were without glass ; the 

 furniture of the sitting-room boasted only of a few of the 

 roughest chairs and stools, with a couple of tables. The 

 supper, although several strangers were present, consisted of 

 two huge piles, one of roast beef, the other of boiled, with 

 some pieces of pumpkin : besides this latter there was no 

 other vegetable, and not even a morsel of bread. For drink- 



* The formal answer of the owner of the place is, " sin pecado conce- 

 bida" — (conceived without sin). 



VOL. III. E 



