238. 



TIERRA DEL FUEGO. 



Jan. 1833. 



party of twenty-eight, started under the command of Captain 

 .FitzRoy. In the afternoon we entered the eastern mouth of 

 the channel, and shortly afterwards found a snug little cove, 

 concealed by some surrounding islets. Here we pitched our 

 tents, and lighted our fires. Nothing could look more com- 

 fortable than this scene. The glassy water of the little 

 harbour, with the trees sending their branches over the 

 rocky beach, the boats at anchor, the tents supported by the 

 crossed oars, and the smoke curling up the wooded valley, 

 formed a picture of quiet retirement. The next day (20th) 

 we smoothly glided onwards in our httle fleet, and came to a 

 more inhabited district. Few if any of these natives could 

 ever have seen a white man ; certainly nothing could exceed 

 their astonishment at the apparition of the four boats. Fires 

 were lighted on every point (hence the name of the land), 

 both to attract our attention, and to spread far and wide the 

 news. Some of the men ran for miles along the shore. As 

 we passed under one cliff, four or five men suddenly ap- 

 peared above us, forming the most wild and savage group 

 that can be imagined. They were absolutely naked, with 

 long streaming hair, and with rugged staffs in their hands : 

 springing from the ground they waved their arms around 

 their heads, and sent forth the most hideous yells. 



At dinner-time we landed among a party of Fuegians. At 

 first they were not inclined to be friendly; for until the 

 captain pulled in ahead of the other boats, they kept their 

 shngs in their hands. We soon, however, delighted them by 

 trifling presents, such as tying red tape round their heads. It 

 was as easy to please, as it was difficult to satisfy these savages. 

 Young and old, men and children, never ceased repeating the 

 word " yammerschooner,^^ which means " give me." After 

 pointing to almost every object, one after the other, even to 

 the buttons on our coats, and saying their favourite word in 

 as many intonations as possible, they would then use it in a 

 neuter sense, and vacantly repeat " yammerschooner." After 

 yammerschoonering for any article very eagerly, they would 



