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CHONOS ARCHIPELAGO. Jan. 1835. 



of seals which we saw was quite astonishing ; every bit of flat 

 rock, and parts of the beach, were covered with them. 

 They appeared to be of a loving disposition, and lay huddled 

 together, fast asleep, like so many pigs ; but even pigs 

 would be ashamed of their dirt, and of the foul smell which 

 came from them. Each herd was watched by the patient 

 but inauspicious eyes of the turkey-buzzard. This disgust- 

 ing bird, with its bald scarlet head, formed to wallow in 

 putridity, is very common on the west coast, and their 

 attendance on the seals shows that they are dependant on 

 their mortality. We found the water (probably only that of 

 the surface) nearly fresh ; this was caused by the number of 

 torrents, which, in the form of cascades, came tumbling over 

 the bold granite mountains into the sea. The fresh water 

 attracts the fish, and these bring many terns, gulls, and two 

 kinds of cormorant. We saw also a pair of the beautiful 

 black-necked swans, and several small sea-otters, the fur of 

 which is held in such high estimation. In returning we were 

 again amused by the impetuous manner in which the heap 

 of seals, old and young, tumbled into the water as the boat 

 passed. They did not remain long under, but rising, followed 

 us with outstretched necks, expressing great wonder and 

 curiosity. 



7th. — Having run up the coast, we anchored near the 

 northern end of the Chonos Archipelago, in Lowe's Harbour, 

 where we remained a week. The islands were here, as in 

 Chiloe, composed of a stratified littoral deposit of soft 

 sandstone with shingle ; and the vegetation in consequence 

 was beautifully luxuriant. The woods came down to the 

 sea-beach, just in the same manner as an evergreen shrub- 

 bery over a gravel walk. We also enjoyed from the 

 anchorage a splendid view of four great snowy cones of 

 the Cordillera, beginning with the saddle-topped volcano, 

 next " el famoso Corcovado,'^ and then two others to the 

 southward. The range itself had in this latitude so little 

 elevation, that few parts of it appeared above the line of the 

 neighbouring islets. We found here a party of five men 



