358 



CHILOE. 



Jan. 1835. 



Although the distance from S. Carlos to Castro is only 

 twelve leagues in a straight line, the formation of the road 

 must have been a great labour. I was told that several peo- 

 ple had formerly lost their hves in attempting to cross the 

 forest. The first who succeeded was an Indian^ who cut his 

 way through the canes in eight days^ and reached S. Carlos. 

 He was rewarded by the Spanish government with a grant of 

 land. During the summer^ many of the Indians wander 

 about the forests (but chiefly in the higher parts^ where the 

 woods are not quite so thick) in search of the half wild cattle 

 which live on the leaves of the cane^ and certain trees. It was 

 one of these huntsmen who by chance discovered, a few years 

 since, an English vessel, which had been wrecked on the outer 

 coast. The crew were beginning to fail in provisions, and it 

 is not probable that, without the aid of this man, they would 

 have been able to have extricated themselves from these 

 scarcely penetrable woods. As it was, one seaman died on 

 the march, from fatigue. The Indians in these excursions 

 steer by the sun ; so that if there is a continuance of cloudy 

 weather, they cannot travel. 



The day was beautiful, and the number of trees which 

 were in full flower perfumed the air; yet even this could 

 scarcely dissipate the eff'ect arising from the gloomy damp- 

 ness of the forest. Moreover, the many dead trunks that 

 stand like skeletons, never fail to give to these primeval 

 woods a character of solemnity which is wanting in those of 

 countries long civilized. Shortly after sunset we bivouacked 

 for the night. Our female companion, who was rather good- 

 looking, belonged to one of the most respectable families in 

 Castro : she rode, however, astride, and without shoes or 

 stockings. I was surprised at the total want of pride shown 

 by her and her brother. They brought food with them, but 

 at all our meals sat watching Mr. King and myself whilst 

 eating, till we were fairly shamed into feeding the whole 

 party. The night was cloudless; and while lying in our 

 beds, we enjoyed the sight (and it is a high enjoyment) of 

 the multitude of stars which illumined the darkness of the 

 forest. 



