362 



CHILOE. 



Feb. 1835. 



on which the sea is eternally roaring. Mr. King and myself 

 were anxious to return, if it had been possible, on foot along 

 this coast; but even the Indians said it is quite imprac- 

 ticable. We were told that men have crossed by striking 

 directly through the woods from Cucao to S. Carlos, but 

 never by the coast. On these expeditions, the Indians carry 

 with them only toasted corn, and of this they eat sparingly 

 twice a day. 



26th. — Re-embarking in the periagua, we returned across 

 the lake, and then mounted our horses. The whole of 

 Chiloe took advantage of this week of unusually fine weather, 

 to clear the ground by burning. In every direction volumes 

 of smoke were curling upwards. Although the inhabitants 

 were so assiduous in setting fire to every part of the wood, 

 yet I did not see a single fire which they had succeeded in 

 making extensive. We dined with our friend the com- 

 mandant, and did not reach Castro till after dark. 



The next morning we started very early. After having 

 ridden for some time, we obtained from the brow of a steep 

 hill an extensive view (and it is a rare thing on this road) of 

 the great forest. Over the horizon of trees, the volcano of 

 Corcovado, and the great flat-topped one to the north ward^ 

 stood out in proud pre-eminence ; scarcely another peak in 

 the long range showed its snowy top. I hope it will be 

 long before I forget this farewell view of the magnificent 

 Cordillera of Chiloe. At night we bivouacked under a 

 cloudless sky, and the next morning reached S. Carlos. 

 We arrived on the right day, for before evening heavy rain 

 commenced. 



February 4th. — Sailed from Chiloe. During the last 

 week I made several short excursions. One was to examine 

 a great bed of oyster and Venus shells, of the same kind 

 now living in the neighbouring bay, but elevated 350 feet 

 (measured by the barometer) above the level of the sea. 

 From among these shells large forest-trees were growing. 

 Another ride was to P. Huechucucuy. I had with me a 

 guide who knew the country far too well; for he would 



