June^ 1835. 



GUASCO. 



427 



The next day^ we crossed some mountains to Freyrina 

 in the valley of Guasco. During each day^s ride fur- 

 ther northward^ the vegetation became more scanty; even 

 the great candlestick cactus was here replaced by a different 

 and much smaller species. During the winter months^, both 

 in northern Chile and in Peru, a uniform stratum of clouds 

 hangs (at no great height) over the Pacific. From these 

 mountains we had a very striking view of the great white and 

 brilliant field, which sent arms up the valleys ; leaving islands 

 and promontories in the same manner, as the sea now inter- 

 sects the Chonos archipelago, or the west coast of Tierra del 

 Fuego. 



We staid two days at Freyrina. In the valley of Guasco 

 there are four small towns. At the mouth, there is the port, 

 a spot entirely desert, and without any water in the im- 

 mediate neighbourhood. Five leagues higher up stands 

 Freyrina, a long straggling village, with decent whitewashed 

 houses. Again, ten leagues further up, Ballenar is situated, 

 and above this Guasco Alto, a horticultural village, famous 

 for its dried fruit. On a clear day, the view up the valley is 

 very fine ; the straight opening is terminated at a great dis- 

 tance by the outline of the snowy Cordillera ; on each side 

 an infinity of crossing lines blend together in a beautiful 

 haze. The foreground is singular, from the number of paral- 

 lel and extensive terraces ; and the included strip of green 

 valley, with its willow bushes, is contrasted on both hands 

 by the naked hills. That the surrounding country was most 

 barren, will be readily believed, from the circumstance of a 

 shower of rain not having fallen during the last thirteen 

 months. The inhabitants heard with the greatest envy of the 

 rain in Coquimbo ; from the appearance of the atmosphere 

 they had strong expectations of equally good fortune, which, 

 a fortnight afterwards, was realized. I was at Copiapo at the 

 time ; and there the people, with equal envy, talked of the 

 abundant rain at Guasco. After two or three very dry years, 

 perhaps with not more than one shower during the whole 

 time, a rainy year generally follows; and this does more 



