June, 1836. cape of good hope. 577 



spots fine tufts of heaths. There were also several beai^itiful 

 little birds: — if a person could not find amusement in 

 observing the animals and plants, there was very little 

 else during the whole day to interest him : only here and 

 there we passed a solitary farm-house. 



Directly after arriving at the Paarl, I ascended a singular 

 group of rounded granite hills, which rise close behind the 

 village. From the summit I enjoyed a fine view of the line 

 of mountains which I had to cross on the following morning. 

 Their colours were gray or partly rusty red, and their out- 

 lines irregular, but far from picturesque : the general tint of 

 the lower country was a pale brownish green, and the whole 

 entirely destitute of woodland.* From the naked state of 

 the mountains, seen likewise through a very clear atmo- 

 sphere, I was reminded of Northern Chile 5 but the rocks 

 there, possess at least a brilliant colouring. Immediately 

 beneath the hill, the long village of the Paarl extended ; all 

 the houses were whitewashed, and appeared very comfort- 

 able; and there was not a single hovel. Each house had 

 its garden and a few trees planted in straight rows ; and there 

 were many vineyards of considerable size, which at this time 

 of year were destitute of leaves. The whole village pos- 

 sessed an air of quiet and respectable comfort. 



June 5th. — After riding about three hours, we came near 

 to the French Hoeck pass. This is so called from a number 

 of emigrant protestant Frenchmen, who formerly settled in a 

 flat valley at the foot of the mountain : it is one of the pret- 

 tiest places I saw in my excursion. The pass is a considerable 

 work, an inclined road having been cut along the steep side 



* When the extreme southern part of Africa was first colonized, 

 rhinoceroses (as 1 am informed by Dr. Andrew Smith) abounded over 

 the whole of this district, and especially in the wooded valleys at the base 

 of Table Mountain, where Cape Town now stands. I mention this in 

 corroboration of the statement (p. 98), that a luxuriant vegetation is not 

 at all necessary for the support of the larger quadrupeds. Having myself 

 seen this district, which was formerly frequented by the huge rhinoceros, 

 I am fully impressed with the truth of those views. 

 VOL. III. 2 P 



