50 



DICTIONARY OF SEASONABLE GARDEN WORK. 



fact, they can be grown in water alone. As they pass 

 out of bloom, remove the flower-stalks and set the pots 

 in a cool but not dark place, watering moderately until 

 spring, when they can be planted outside. 



Hydrati'^eas, if wanted quite early, may now be started. 

 For general use, a month or more later will be better. 



Lemon Verbena should be treated like fuchsias. 

 Lilies-of-the-valley that were started earlier in sand, 

 or are now to be started, can be brought in twice a month. 

 If the clumps are of good quality, and rightly treated, 

 they will bear above 80° bottom heat, and nearly as high 

 for the house. To obtain the finest bloom, shade with 

 cloth to keep off the sunlight and cold air. 



Mignonette, of the earliest sown, should now be in 

 bloom in a temperature of 45° to 50°, while plants for 

 spring bloom must be kept somewhat cooler. Guard 

 against frost, and keep them near the glass. For house 

 use, seed may now be sown. 



Orchids now at rest ought not to have more water than 

 enough to prevent the buds shriveling. Vandas, aerides 

 and the like may require rather more than the fleshy 

 oncidiums, cattleyas, etc. The required watering must 

 be done with care, so that the foliage shall not become 

 wet ; and the early part of the day is the best time for 

 this. Keep the temperature quite regular throughout the 

 dormant season. 



Pansies. — When stock from seed sown in fall is not at 

 hand, seed sown this month will make good spring- 

 blooming plants. 



Pelargoniums like a warm situation, with air and sun- 

 light. Much of their beauty depends on their free 

 growth at this season. 



Perennials. — Delphiniums, sweet-williams, hollyhocks, 

 etc., if seed be sown now in the window or greenhouse, 

 with fair treatment until planting-out time will bloom by 

 September. Summer seedlings of these plants should 

 be given some winter protection. 



Petunias. — Propagate from cuttings as fast as good 

 growth permits. Seeds also may be sown this month. 



Plans for making improvements about the place at 

 this season should be worked out. Good results can not 

 be obtained if the planting is done promiscuously in the 

 hurry of the spring work. Orders for stock should also 

 be made out at once, and forwarded to the plant-dealers 

 and seedsmen for early attention. 



Primroses of the double-white class ought to receive 

 careful attention, with a view to propagation later on. 



Propagating such plants as heliotrope, geraniums, car- 

 nations, verbenas, and other summer-blooming plants, 

 should be well under way this month. Geranium-cut- 

 tings may at once be put in thumb-pots for rooting ; but 

 be watchful in the matter of watering them. 



Seed-so-Ming. — Mignonette, petunia, maurandia, ten- 

 weeks' stocks, cobelia, golden-feather, verbena, Salvia 

 splendent sensitive-plant, dianthus, antirrhinum, and 

 mimulus may be sown for early strong plants. 



Roses of the hardy class, if not earthed up a foot or 

 so, may be helped by the use of coal-ashes for this pur- 

 pose. This will insure their safety. 



Schizanthus want about 50° heat, with air and light. 

 Staking should also be properly attended to. 



II. GARDENING for TABLE AND MARKET. 



Asparagus under glass should be watered without stint 

 if best results are desired. 



Coldframes, containing vegetable-plants of any kind, 

 should have all the air possible on suitable days. Clean 

 off all decomposing leaves, and stir the surface of the 

 soil should it tend toward hardness. 



Apples and other fruits in winter-storage need frequent 

 examination, and prompt removal of rot-specked speci- 

 mens. Keep in a temperature of about 34°, and well 

 ventilated. 



Boxes for Seed. — The so-called "flats" are a great 

 convenience for sowing seed in, to be placed in frames, 

 hotbeds, etc. We obtain a full supply during the 

 winter by arranging with our groceryman to save for us 

 all the bo.xes in which he receives canned meats, etc. 

 These are of just the right depth and of a handy size. 

 Gardeners can get them in almost unlimited quantities 

 and at a merely nominal price by speaking to a number 

 of grocerymen in their vicinity about them. Such flats 

 can also be made of starch or soap-boxes. 



Cucmnbers under glass require a night temperature of 

 70°, and a day temperature of 80°, and more in full sun- 

 light. Full information on cucumber-forcing was given 

 in December issue. It is a promising industry for the 

 skillful gardener. Do not encourage the plants exces- 

 sively with stimulants, unless the plants are quite strong. 



Graperies now starting should not have more than 35° 

 at first, and be well syringed twice a day to assist the 

 breaking of the buds. As the young growth appears, 

 air should be given sufficiently to prevent its being 

 weak and the foliage thin. Take advantage of mild 

 days for this work. 



Insects of most kinds that affect fruits need not be 

 greatly feared, if the grower makes up his mind to use 

 arsenical sprays in their proper time. The codlin-worm 

 especially can be readily disposed of by these means. 

 The plum-curculio does not yield so readily to this treat- 

 ment, and the old jarring process may yet have to be 

 depended upon. At any rate, it behooves every grower 

 to make himself fully acquainted with all these ques- 

 tions, then to procure the required apparatus and drugs ; 

 and this should be done as soon as possible, in order 

 to to have everything on hand when needed. 



Labels on fruit-trees should be inspected, in order to 

 replace the old ones with new ones before the names 

 have become illegible ; or at least the names should be 

 written in anew. A heavy pine label, painted with white- 

 lead and written on before dry with a soft lead-pencil, 

 is excellent. Strips of zinc, moistened and written on 

 with lead-pencil, are perhaps even better. Attach them 

 to a small limb with copper wire. Never put the wire 

 around the body of the tree, because if neglected the 

 wire may choke it. 



Lettuce which has been kept growing ki hotbeds should 

 be watched for greenfly and damping-off of the leaves, 



