228 



BUDS. BLOSSOMS, FRUITS. 



a house cannot get out of shape and has a compara- 

 tively small exposed surface. To use iron posts is 

 cheaper than to build so many sides and gutters ; there 

 is also less shade. — Thos. L. Brown, i\Iic]i. 



Arraryllis in a Butter-tub.— One of the most beautiful 

 floral displays I ever saw was a butter-tub filled to over- 

 flowing with J'allota purpurea. It was in full bloom 

 with dozens of blossoms already open and dozens more 

 coming on. Both foliage and flowers were on a grand 

 scale and showed me possibilities in the plant of which 

 I never dreamed. What the treatment was which pro- 

 duced such amazing results, I could not learn, as the 

 owner was not at home, but a little experimenting in 

 extra care and culture may result in similar success for 

 others.— E. W. 



Woman Insect- Detective Wanted. — One morning 

 last June I went out to my 30-foot rose-bed, and howled 

 at the sight that met my eyes, and exclaimed as I wrung 

 my hands: *'An enemy hath done this! " I went down 

 the garden a little way, close to a row of currant-bushes, 

 and howled again. For the rose-leaves were curled and 

 mostly eaten off by disgusting bugs and worms. Cur- 



rant-leaves the same. Now, suppose in this dreadful 

 emergency, when my house was full of company and I 

 was up to my ears in work, my garden gate had opened, 

 and a nice little woman had stepped in armed with a fuU 

 spraying outfit, lots of insecticides and knowledge 

 enough to rid me of that disgusting horde. After her 

 work was done I would have paid her on the spot, with 

 thanks besides. Why can't some some bright woman be 

 an insect-detective ? If she was quick, handy and sure, 

 she would soon have a round of customers, who, if she 

 didn't appear on time, would wear holes in the back 

 gate looking for her. She might also add pruning- 

 knives, and a knowledge how to use them, to her outfit. 

 I know street after street in Detroit where the shade- 

 trees need pruning and deft fingers would turn the 

 shaggy, forlorn-looking objects into gracefully shaped 

 trees. There is work in city and country for the 

 woman capable of filling the bill. She would soon earn 

 a splendid salary and be a healthy, happy woman, and 

 enjoy her occupation besides. — Sister Gracious. 



A Good Example. — Your article, " Quick Results Af- 

 ter Planting," must be an incentive to those who have 

 procrastinated. It also reminds me of the happy results 

 of my efforts. I settled here in the fall of 1883, and the 

 following spring broke up the raw prairie and planted an 

 orchard, using yearling trees. I spaded up a spot two 

 feet square and a spade in depth, in the dead furrows, for 



each tree. Now for results. We have peach trees 12 

 inches in diameter that have yielded five successive crops 

 of splendid fruit, and apple trees four to seven inches 

 through that have fruited four years; and for several 

 years we have also had plums, cherries, apricots, 

 quinces, pears, grapes and small fruits. My orchard, 

 which stands by the roadside, is an object-lesson to peo- 

 ple for many miles around. — E. T. Daniels, Barber 

 Co., A'a/isas. 



Novel Mode of Underground Grafting. — The same 

 method of tying which B. A. Green in an earlier issue of 

 T.iE American Garden described as being used in bank- 

 ing celery, I have practiced for tying up grafts. The 

 stocks to be operated upon are standing in rows in clean, 

 well-worked ground, and are to be grafted where they 

 stand. Clear away the earth from about the roots of the 

 stocks to a depth of about three inches ; then cut away at 

 such a height as will leave the stump with its top about 

 one inch below the general surface. With a suitable knife 

 (an old saddler's knife pretty well worn down is a good 

 tool for the purpose), split the stocks to receive the scions, 

 which are cut wedge-shaped at the lower end ; then insert 

 into the split in the 

 stock. You can 

 use either a saddle- 

 graft or the usual 

 splice- graft, ac- 

 cording to size of 

 stock or other con- 

 ditions. Then 

 take a ball of twine 

 (the cotton twine 



used in shops for tying parcels suits pretty well, but fine 

 linen twine is more conveniently handled), begin at the 

 end as shown, and if the stocks are not firm enough to 

 bear the strain and remain upright, assist with a stout 

 peg, P. Then wind around each in succession, keeping 

 the string unbroken, beginning at the lower part of the 

 union and winding upwards ; then turn downwards to the 

 same point where the winding commenced, thus making 

 the strain even on both sides of the stock. Then go on 

 to the next, and so on till the row is finished. Replace 

 the earth about the roots, raising it nearly to the top of 

 the scion, and pack nicely with the foot or hands. 



I claim no credit here for the method of grafting below 

 the surface of the ground. It has no doubt been prac- 

 ticed more or less, but the mode of tying is new. This 

 mode is well adapted to working apples, pears, plums, 

 ornamental thorns and mountain ash, and probably to 

 the beeches, oaks and other hardwood trees. It is some- 

 times desired to get trees on their own roots. This 

 underground grafting is favorable for that purpose. In 

 that case cut the scion about an inch or a-half-inch from 

 the lower end by forming a tongue on it ; then place it 

 on a wedge made on a stock. There is almost a certainty 

 that the scion will form a root. The portion below the 

 point of union should not be left too long — not more than, 

 say, atnmost six inches. If too long it is likely to rot 

 off. — Sarnia. 



Underground Grafting. 



