DICTIONARY OF SEASONABLE GARDEN WORK. 



369 



Lemons and Oranges. — Treat as advised for azaleas. 



Lilies in bloom need an abundance of water. Make 

 a basin around each plant and water liberally. 



Orchids will finish their growth before June 30, and 

 will need a lighter position in which to mature. Those 

 still in vigorous growth must be given abundant heat 

 and moisture. Odontoglossums, and others requiring 

 cool treatment, must not be given a temperature above 

 70°. 



Pansies. — Sow seeds for fall flowers. 



Pegging dozen trailing or other plants, is a simple 

 process that often greatly increases their growth and 

 bloom. Bring some of their strong young branches 

 down to the ground and fix them there by wooden or 

 metal hooks, or by crossing pegs over them Roses, 

 achyranthes, alternantheras, lantanas, clematis, etc., 

 may be treated in this way. 



Petunias, verbe)ias, and many other plants in bor- 

 ders will need attention in the way of pegging down. 



Pinks. — Stake and tie. 



Primroses. — Provide with heavy shade overhead from 

 now on until October, especially double white ones. 



Propagation . — It is still time to make and strike 

 cuttings of fuchsias, geraniums, petunias, heliotropes, 

 sweet alyssum, etc, for winter-flowering stock. 



Pruning Shrubs. — Shrubs which bloom in spring and 

 early summer, may be pruned as soon as the blooming 

 period is past. During the summer flowering branches 

 for next season are formed. By judicious trimming at 

 this time we can improve the shape of the shrub. Prun- 

 ing any time after the growing season, means nothing 

 less than cutting away flowers. 



Repairing greenhouses, where needed, is also now in 

 order, whenever other work is not preasing. Every- 

 thing should be in shape by the time the houses are to 

 be re-stocked next fall. 



Seed. Soiuing. — Plants, such as calceolarias, ciner- 

 arias, mignonette, pansy, sweet alyssum and many 

 others needed for use in the house next fall, winter and 

 spring, may now be started from seed. 



Summer-blooming Stove-plants, while in flower, may 

 be removed to cooler quarters. 



Tritomas. — Treat as advised for lilies. 



lVinte7--Bloomers. — Plants in pots or bedded out, 

 such as carnations, bouvardias, heliotropes, poinsettias, 

 etc., should now, in their early growth, be pinched freely 

 to induce shapely forms. 



II. GARDENING for TABLE AND MARKET. 

 Apples. — Spray trees for scab. 



Asparagus. — Cutting should cease by middle or end 

 of this month. The plants need top-growth to aid in 

 root development. 



Beans. — All kinds may now be planted. Nothing 

 is gained by waiting. Limas, started earlier in pots or 

 on inverted sods under glass, should now go out to their 

 permanent quarters. Where poles are scarce, use a 

 wire trellis and twine. With a little care, all beans can 

 be easily transplanted. We always fill gaps in the rows 



by taking plants up with the spade, where too thick, and 

 setting into vacant spots. Plant snap-beans for succes- 

 sion, For a field sort try the Burlingame Mediums. 



itVe/^.— Sow the table varieties for succession ; the 

 mangels for main crop. 



Blackberries. — Tie the young canes to stakes, and 

 clip tops off three feet from the ground. 



Cabbage. — Market the early crop. Set plants for late 

 fall and winter ; or sow in open ground, 5 or 6 seeds in 

 a place, just where you want the plants to stand, re- 

 moving all but the best plant in each hill. 



Carrots. — For table use you want young tender roots. 

 To secure them, sow the Chantenay or any other good 

 sort. Cultivate and thin the earlier plantings. 



CauliftoiL'cr. — Treat like cabbage. 



Celery. — Set White Plume for earliest use at once, 

 and in very rich, highly-manured loamy soil. Keep the 

 plants growing vigorously. Slight shading for a time is 

 beneficial. Cultivate and hoe often. The plant-beds 

 for later plantings should be kept well stirred, free from 

 weeds, and plants properly thinned. Apply nitrate of 

 soda in small quantities, if you can get it conveniently. 

 For fall and winter use begin setting plants the last of 

 this month. 



Corn. — For late use plant the sweet varieties all 

 through this month. 



Cresses. — Sow for succession. 



Cucumbers. — Plant for pickles at once Plants start- 

 ed earlier under glass should now go outdoors. Prepare 

 the hills by mixing some old rotted manure in each one. 

 The dwarf sorts, like Early Russian, may be planted in 

 hills 3'2 or 4 feet apart each way, the ordinary varie- 

 ties — Long Green, White Spine, etc., need 5 or 6 feet 

 each way between the hills, especially if the soil is quite 

 rich. When plants are well out of danger from bugs, 

 thin to 3 or 4 good plants in a hill. Bugs can be kept 

 off by covering the ground around the plants with an 

 inch layer of tobacco dust, bone meal or a mixture of 

 both. Cucumbers in frames require an abundance of 

 water both over the foliage and at the roots. 



Currants. — Destroy the worms by spraying with 

 hellebore-water, tobacco-water, or solutions of potash 

 salts. As new growth appears it is well to remove a 

 portion of the shoots. 



Dill. — Sow seed for flavoring cucumber-pickles. This 

 is much liked by Germans. 



Egg-Planls require a warm season, soil and location. 

 They will thrive in almost clear manure, and will not 

 give satisfaction if planted in soil not excessively rich. 

 Set in rows 2 feet apart ; plants 15 to 18 inches in 

 the row. 



Grafts of recent setting will require attention. Young 

 shoots growing just below grafts should be removed be- 

 fore they draw much nourishment away from them. 



Grapes. — On newly-set vines, only one shoot should 

 be allowed to grow. Keep the older vines carefully tied 

 to trellises. Spray frequently with fungicides ; at this 

 season preferably with the reduced Bordeaux mixture. 

 Vines that overbear should have their fruit thinned. 



