HOW TO GROW ROSES IN CITIES. 



393 



side of the buildings, especially as seen from the street in 

 front of the house. The location of the trees and shrubs 

 in this plat was governed, by the desire to secure a pleas- 

 ing balance of woody growths, an open lawn-center, and 

 some fine vistas lengthwise through the grounds. Ever- 

 greens are suggested for use to the north and northwest 

 of the house, for the sake of their peculiar beauty the 

 year round and the shelter they afford from north and 

 northwest winds. Several flower-beds have also been 

 suggested for the north side of the house. 



Fig 3 (opposite page) represents the ground plan of a 

 reader's home in a city in Utah. The lot is 54 feet wide 

 and 30 feet deep from the street-fence to the house, or a 

 total of nearly 100 feet to the part farther back, here rep- 

 pesented. A drive to the right of the house leads to a 

 stable in the rear. The owner intended to have the front 

 walk and the drive to the street straight, after the ordi- 

 nary fashion, as shown by dotted lines in fig. 3. He re- 

 quested assistance not only in arranging the approaches 

 with some degree of grace and beauty, but also in select- 

 ing locations of some shrubs and trees suitable for effect- 

 ively adorning the little place. The advantages of the 

 curved form of drive and walk suggested to our subscriber 

 are similar to those referred to under fig. 2. Garden 

 features are thus so emphasized, and the prevailing 

 straight lines of the surroundings so relieved by curves 

 and irregularities of planting, that the general beauty of 

 the spot is much enhanced. Instead of the drive starting 

 in straight from the street and showing a continuous 

 straight line beyond the house, this stiffness is relieved 

 by a curve and a fine bit of gardening on both sides of 

 the drive at the street end. 



The part of the garden to the left of the walk is cer- 

 tainly more pronounced in its enlarged form, with the 

 curving boundary on one side, than a straight walk ar- 

 rangement could be. The plat directly back from the 

 entrance, defined by a bold curve and filled by a massive 



group, gives strength to the garden quality of the place, 

 as seen either from house or street. This in itself is 

 worth more for effect than would be the unbroken plat, 

 lost in curving the walks. The very irregularity of the 

 design throughout is its chief charm, while it cannot be 

 denied that even in this small area an approach to land- 

 scape-effects is secured in the largest plat of the three, 

 with its open center, in front of the house. 



For planting this small place a selection of 50 kinds of 

 trees, shrubs and flowers has been made. The names of 

 these, together with their respective locations, are as fol- 

 lows — the numbers corresponding with the numbers on 

 plan (fig. 3). Privet is planted at i ; 2, plumed hydran- 

 geas (//. graiidiflora); 3, Mugho pine; 4, 

 cut-leaved weeping birch ; 5, Chinese wistaria ; 6, dwarf 

 spruces; 7, golden-bell (/brs_iV/(/« viridissima); 8, Ja- 

 pan quince in two colors, red and white ; 9, red-bud 

 [Ccrcis Canadensis, ov Magnolia speciosa) ; 10, double 

 deutzia ; \i, Deiitzia gracilis ; 12, calycanthus, or sweet- 

 scented shrub ; 13, variegated-leaved weigelia ; 14, weig- 

 elias ; 15, Hall's honeysuckle ; 16, clematises ; 17, Japan 

 viburnum (/'. plicatiim); 18, J'ibur>iiim lanlanoidcs : 

 19, Spircca Thunbergii ; 20, plum-leaved spiraea; 21, 

 double-flowering mock-orange ; 22, variegated-leaved 

 corchorus ; 23, Spinca callosa alba ; 24, Reeves' spiraea; 

 25, Douglas' spiraea; 26, flowering almond ; 27, flowering 

 plum [Friinus triloba); 28, raised bed of bright flowers; 

 29, Weigelia Candida ; 30, Spircca sorbifolia ; 31, al- 

 thaeas ; 32, Colutea arborescens ; 33, purple-leaved 

 b?rberry ; 34, cut-leaved elder ; 35, hardy perennial 

 plants in assortment, including Spircc<t ai-uncus and S. 

 palmata ; 36, Ampelopsis I'ei/chii ; 37, tamarisk; 38, 

 lilac ; 39, scarlet honeysuckle ; 40, trumpet-vine ; 41, 

 Dutchman's-pipe ; 42, flowering-currant ; 43, mock-or- 

 ange ; 44, Tatarian honeysuckle ; 45, variegated-leaved 

 Cornelian cherry ; 46, Mahonia aquifolia ; 47, box ; 

 48, English ivy ; 49, Akebia quinata ; 50, Ampelopsis 

 Veitchii 



HOW TO GROW ROSES IN CITIES. 



NOTES FROM BROOKLYN. 



I HEN I began to grow roses in the 

 city I was told by a number of 

 men clever in gardening that suc- 

 cess in my undertaking was out 

 of the question because of smoke, 

 dust, gasses, foul air, etc. I paid 

 no attention to their warnings or 

 advice, well knowing that if the 

 roses received six to eight hours 

 of sunshine each day and care such as is given by skilled 

 men in the country my chances for success were as good 

 as theirs. I have grown pretty good roses of the leading 

 monthly varieties in the city of Brooklyn for the last 

 seven years. 



Every year, about the first week in July, I set young 

 rose-plants in fresh soil. The cuttings from which they 



are grown are taken from healthy plants the preceding 

 December and placed in the propagating-bed ; they root 

 in from 21 to 28 days. When nicely rooted I prick them 

 off in flat boxes, setting the plants 2 '2 or 3 inches apart, 

 and grow them on until they are large enough to be 

 placed in 4 or 5-inch pots. Great care must be taken 

 that the roots of young rose-plants are not broken when 

 removing them from flats to pots. From the 4-inch pots 

 my plants are shifted into larger ones before planting in 

 those that are to hold them while blooming. One re- 

 potting would suffice, but I have in these pots old roses 

 that I do not like to throw out — until they have ceased 

 blooming and seem to need rest — for the accommodation 

 of the younger ones. The old plants usually do well 

 until July. I set all the plants outdoors four or five 

 weeks previous to final transplanting ; this hardens them 



