DICTIONARY OF SEASONABLE GARDEN WORK. 



A frame is a good place for small plants for a while yet. 

 Begin now to push propagation to secure the stock 

 wanted next season. On the whole, newly-struck plants 

 give better satisfaction to the florist than old ones. Pot 

 cuttings at first sight of roots. Syringe all newly filled 

 houses frequently, and ventilate them freely in all favor- 

 able weather. 



Gcraniinns. — Strike cuttings for next season's stock. 



Gladiolus. — Attend to proper staking. Remove dead 

 flower-stalks. Let the strength of the plants go into the 

 bulbs rather than the seed. Label plants before frost 

 comes, if the variety-name is to be preserved. Light 

 frosts will not hurt the bulbs if they are planted 4 or 5 

 inches deep, as they should have been. 



Ivies. — Lift the bedded plants toward the end of the 

 month. Shift young plants as they need it, 



Jasminum grandijlorum. — Give manure-water once 

 a week, 



Jerusalem Cherries. — Lift and pot the plants to be 

 taken indoors, and give them an abundant supply of 

 water. 



Lawns. — Mow them regularly except in seasons of 

 drouth. Keep edges neatly trimmed, and weeds cut down 

 or pulled up in walks and on grass plats. Stake and tie 

 all tall-growing flowers in the borders. 



Lobelia cardinalis. — Plants are easily grown from 

 the seed now ripening. Sow it at once. 



Orchids. — Gradually lessen the supply of moisture. 

 Active growth during winter should not be encouraged 

 by warmth or free watering, 



Oxalis. — Start plants of floribunda, lutea, etc., into 

 growth for use in the window later. 



Fansies. — Keep the seedlings growing thriftily. 



Peonies. — Clumps of these and other perennials, as 

 phlox, lily-of-the-valley, lilies, etc., may be divided and 

 reset as soon as they have finished their growth for the 

 season. 



Phloxes. — See peonies. 



Primulas. — Keep them in a cool, airy situation, and 

 guard against over-watering. The double white ones 

 may be kept slightly shaded until next month. 



Roses. — Lift plants from the border, and repot plants 

 for winter flowering as needed. 



Tritomas. — To bring out their best bloom, water 

 them occasionally with liquid manure. 



leases. — Take pains to protect the vases and hanging- 

 baskets, now so attractive, during the first few frosty 

 nights, thus keeping them beautiful for a time. 



Verbe7ias. — The best plants for keeping over are those 

 started from tender shoots after the middle of this month. 



Violets. — Set them in frames to secure fall and spring 

 bloom. 



Weeds. — Continue the fight against them. Chickweed 

 and some other kinds grow rapidly during the fall and 

 in early winter. 



Wild- Flower Gardejis. — This is a good month for 

 starting all plants that can now be easily procured from 

 the woods. 



II. GARDENING FOR TABLE AND MARKET. 

 Apples. — Prompt destruction of windfalls will tend to 

 lessen the amount of wormy fruit in future. Best 

 methods of marketing should occupy the attention of 

 producers. Good fruit nicely put up will find a good 

 market. 



Asparagus. — The beds may now be mowed and the 

 tops promptly removed before seed is scattered to produce 

 a new set of plants that will give trouble afterward. New 

 beds can be made any time between September and 

 spring. The soil should be warm loam, well manured 

 and well prepared. 



Beans. — Gather large, ripe pods of all garden sorts 

 for seed. Of course the varieties mix easily, and when 

 pure seed is desired it must be taken from plants stand- 

 ing at some distance from other varieties. All ripe gar- 

 den-beans may be prepared for the table like ordinary 

 field-beans. Be sure to save the seed of choice Limas, 

 selecting the larger pods on the lower part of the vines. 



Beets. — The early table sorts may now be sown in 

 frames for late use. 



Blackberries need no further attention for the present. 

 Do not encourage late growth by continued cultivation. 



Borers. — Hunt them up and destroy them. 



Budding.— Vvaish. budding peaches and quinces. If 

 buds set earlier have failed to take, rebudding may be 

 done as long as the stock is in active growth. 



Cabbage. — Clear off the earlier patches and continue 

 cultivating the later ones. For plants to winter over sow 

 seed of Early Jersey Wakefield in open ground about 

 September 10 and 20. One or the other of these sowings 

 will be just right for transplanting in coldfraraes by No- 

 vember. Set them 2x3 inches apart. 



Caulifloiver. — Treat as advised for cabbage, 



Celery . — At the south there is yet time for setting out 

 plants for the late crop. Give clean and thorough culti- 

 vation in order to encourage free growth, and water in 

 dry weather if practicable. All our washing-suds, as soon 

 as they become available for the purpose on washing- 

 days, are taken out and emptied along our rows of celery. 

 We are gradually learning to dispense with hand-labor 

 in bleaching the crop. We now neither " handle" nor 

 earth up Bleaching with boards is an easy and efficient 

 method, when the plants are set in single rows. When 

 planted closely, on the new system, and the plants grow 

 as rank as they should, they will bleach without earth 

 or boards, and sufficiently for winter storage in any case. 

 Corn. — If you have a surplus of sweet-corn, dry it for 

 winter use. Boil it until the milk is set, cut the grains 

 from the cob and dry them quickly. 



Cresses. — If you are fond of the pungent flavor of 

 cresses with your fall salads, you can have a full supply 

 by sowing seed now. It grows quickly. 



Cucumbers. — Continue gathering the crop of pickles. 

 Before frost gather also all large ripe specimens, as they 

 can be utilized in making mustard pickles. 



Cucumber-Forcing. — To obtain cucumbers in January, 

 sow seeds now and keep them in high heat. 



