63S 



OUEST/OiYS ASKED AND ANSWERED. 



will be about the same here as on the sides and ends. 

 If windows are used, four sashes, about 2 or 3 inches 

 apart and closely fitted, will be required. Now for ven- 



BUILOING PAPER 



Wall of Fruit-Storage Cellar. 



tilatii 



If the floor is high, so that water will not 

 stay on it, I would leave a hole under the wall within a 

 foot of the corner at each end. Build it up one foot 

 above ground, and cover it securely in such a manner as to 

 be easy of access to open or close, as necessity may require. 

 Then in the center of the roof leave a hole, say 12 inches 

 square, protected as you would the ventilator in an ice- 

 house. The hole can be fitted with a door, either to 

 swing or slide This system will give perfect ventila- 

 tion. Unless the temperature inside should be above 

 35°. the outside ventilators should not be open. This 

 plan will answer well in summer or winter. Any car- 

 penter ought to be able to get a good idea of the build- 

 ing from this description. — J. Heagerty, .\' )' 



2999. Hydrangea-Culture. — The plant when left to it- 

 self is free-branching, and every branch produces a 

 cluster of bloom in summer. If you wish flower-clusters 

 of the largest possible size, trim the plant to one stem • 

 but a well-proportioned plant with spreading branches is 

 much more beautiful. Our hydrangeas are kept in the 

 cellar during winter ; in spring, as soon as growth starts, 

 they are brought out, carefully reset in rich loam, and 

 given an abundance of water. As the heat of summer 

 increases, they are shaded somewhat during part of the 

 day. Soon the buds begin to develop, and liquid stimu- 

 lants are given. Hydrangeas are easily propagated. 

 Four young sprouts that had developed only a few leaves 

 were accidentally broken from a plant this spring. They 

 were placed in soil and kept watered, and every one has 

 developed into a fine plant. — W. H. Yeomans, Conn. 



301 1 Huckleberry-Plants from Seed. — I have raised 

 a great many by the following method : I cut the ber- 

 ries in two, and then, scooping out the seeds with the 

 point of my knife, dropped them into a tumbler of water 

 and stirred them rapidly with a spoon to separate them 



from the pulp. When separated, I dipped them, three 

 or four at a time, from the tumbler and dropped them 

 upon the earth I had prepared in pots or boxes to re- 

 ceive them. No special soil was found necessary. The 

 seeds were lightly covered, and by the middle of October 

 had germinated. The seedlings were kept growing in the 

 boxes or pots for about a year, then set out in the garden. 

 I have raised a great many huckleberry-plants to the 

 bearing stage, but as they did not give any better berries 

 than those growing wild nearby, I rooted them all up 

 long ago. I think that the most promising species for 

 experiment is the dangleberry (Gaylussacia frondosa), 

 which varies somewhat in the wild state, and comes into 

 use after most other small fruits. — W. E. Endicott. 



3014. Downing Mulberry Dying.— Cutting back half 

 the new growth in the fall would not kill the tree, nor, so 

 long as it stands in well-drained ground, would wet 

 weather. Possibly it winter-killed. 



3016. Grape Not Fruiting. — The seedling grape which 

 the inquirer reports as flowering but never fruiting is 

 probably a male vine. If it is a male vine, it may be 

 known by having only staminate flowers, as shown in fig. 

 I If it is a pistillate vine, the flowers will be like those 

 shown in fig. 2., in which the pistil is well developed, but 

 the stamens very short and declining. Such a vine will bear 

 little or no fruit unless other vines having male flowers 

 or erect stamens opening at the same time stand near, 

 when it will bear abundantly. The Lindley, Brighton 

 and Moyer are vines of this class. Vines like the Con- 

 cord, Ives, Delaware, and most varieties in cultivation, 

 have perfect or hermaphrodite flowers, with both pistil 

 and stamens well developed, like those shown in fig. 3. 

 Such vines will produce well when growing alone ; yet 

 even they appear to do better when other long-stamened 

 varieties, especially males, flowering at the same time, 

 grow nearby. If the seedling vine is a male, it can be 

 grafted near the 

 ground with a good 

 bearing variety early 

 in spring, and will 

 produce vine enough ' 



to make a full crop Blossoms of Grape-Vine. 

 the next year. I have grafts in "my vineyard, put in last 

 March, when the sap flowed freely at every cut, that 

 now are an inch in diameter at the base, and have fine 

 spreading tops, aggregating from 40 to 60 or more feet of 

 vine.— T. V. Munson. 



3021 Apple-Tree Blight. — The disease which affects 

 the inquirer's trees, and which, in the latter part of June 

 and July, "makes them look as if singed by fire," may 

 be the apple-rust, a species of roestelia, or the scab [Fusi- 

 cladiiim dentriticum). The former appears as bright 

 yellow rust, on young leaves and fruit. One of the 

 stages of this fungus is the cedar-apple found on red 

 cedars and junipers. To prevent it, destroy cedars and ju- 

 nipers, hawthorns, wild apples, etc., in the vicinity of 

 the orchard. Scab appears as brown or blackish spots 

 on leaves and fruit. Spraying with fungicides in June 

 and July is recommended. 



