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QUESTIONS ASKED AND ANSWERED. 



of the three, and certainly the most lasting in its effects. 

 It often increases the number of blossoms, and heightens 

 their color, at the same time improving the firmness of 

 the petals and the thrift and color of the foliage. On the 

 whole, the substances mentioned are like sharp tools. 

 In the hands of a skillful workman they can be made to 

 do good service ; but in the hands of a child they may do 

 a great deal of harm. The applications must be fitted 

 to the conditions of the plant. A dormant plant, or one 

 with little root, is more liable to be injured than to be 

 benefited by the free application of liquid fertilizers of 

 this kind ; while a growing plant, with root system fully 

 developed, will make good use of quite strong doses. 

 Always observe the condition of the plant and its roots 

 before such applications are made, and regulate quan- 

 tity and strength accordingly. Clear water is good 

 enough for plants with few roots. We should take no 

 risks, and avoid being too lavish either in quantity or 

 strength. A small teaspoonful of sulphate of ammonia 

 to the gallon of water, or very weak liquid manure (say 

 of tea color) will usually be all that is required for good 

 results. — G. R. 



2646, Planting Dwarf Pears. It isa rule of pretty 

 general application that every tree does best on its own 

 roots. This consideration has led to the advice to plant 

 dwarf pear trees deep enough so that the pear scion will 

 strike roots, and in time transform the dwarf into a 

 longer-lived standard. Thus the quince root brings the 

 tree into bearing at an early age, and then, having 

 fulfilled this mission, dies and gives way to genuine 

 pear roots. This same method is now also practiced 

 and recommended by our very best authorities in re- 

 gard to apple root grafts. The latter are set deep, thus 

 inducina; the graft to throw out roots on its own account, 

 and make itself independent of the root stock upon 

 which it was grafted. While we are followers of this 

 practice and doctrine, it must be said that some good 

 horticulturists differ with us on this question, and be- 

 lieve that it is best rather to let dwarfs remain dwarfs, 

 and to plant standards where standards are the ultimate 

 aim. — G. R. 



2657. Pansies Dying. The trouble with pansies dy- 

 ing in seed pans was probably that they were kept too 

 densely shaded. Plants grown in the absence of the 

 needed light are always weak and subject to injury 

 from exposure, or from fungus attacks. In cool or dark 

 weather little or no shading is needed. 



264T. Prizetaker Onion Sown in Fall. We doubt 

 very much whether this variety is hardy enough to winter 

 out-doors at the north. At least it would not be safe to 

 run the risk. We are trying this on a small scale this 

 year. iVIuch, of course, depends on season and location. 

 We have had Danvers Yellow or Yellow Dutch, grown 

 from seed sown in August, winter in good condition 

 where planted, and make good bunching onions in early 

 spring. In a mild climate, and with slight protection by 

 leaves or litter, we believe almost all onion varieties 

 could be sown in fall, and wintered in good condition. 

 The Extra Early Pearl (Johnson & Stokes) has been used 

 in this way even in northern Ohio with perfect success. 

 In growing Prizetakers, we would prefer to sow in hot- 

 bed in February, and transplant to open ground in April, 

 in accordance with the system termed " The new onion 

 culture." — G. R. 



2644. Oats in Currants. Sowing oats is often recom- 

 mended as a means of providing a cheap mulch for 

 strawberry beds, etc. We have never fallen in love with 

 the practice. A light mulch of marsh hay is good enough 

 for our purpose. So far as mulching currants is con- 

 cerned, we do not see what good results could be accom- 

 plished by it. Currants are perfectly hardy in root and 

 bud and need no winter protection. On the other hand 

 they will respond gratefully to liberal treatment in the 

 way of fertilizers, and in place of the oat mulch which 

 adds nothing to the soil, we would much prefer to give a 

 good coat of stablemanure or other manurial substances 

 in its place. — G. R. 



2651. Strawberries in Louisiana. Theonly means 

 which we could suggest of protecting strawberry plants 

 from injury by the hot sun and dry weather of the in- 

 quirer's state, is by planting in a half shady situation, or 

 by shading with screens or similar devices. It seems 

 that there could be no great difficulty in the way of grow- 

 ing strawberries, no matter how warm the climate or 

 how dry the season, if proper use is made of natural or 

 artificial shading, especially in conjunction with irriga- 

 tion. Strawberry beds, in warm latitudes, maybe made 

 at the north side of buildings, in vineyards, young or- 

 chards, or between rows of any tall growth, even if noth- 

 ing but corn or cane. Certainly there ought to be some 

 way of summering strawberry plants in safety. 



2645. Growing Potted Strawberry Plants for 

 Market. New land fertilized with a compost of 8 bar- 

 rels of fish scraps, 20 one-horse loads of muck, 30 of sea 

 weed and 300 pounds of phosphate will probably be in 

 first-rate condition for growing strawberry plants. 

 Where plant growth is desired rather than the production 

 of fruit, nitrogen should be the chief element in the fertil- 

 izing materials used. The sea-weed, with its perhaps 

 two per cent, of potash, and the phosphate and fish scrap, 

 supply the mineral plant foods in great abundance ; while 

 nitrogen is provided in the muck, fish scrap, and still 

 more in the decaying sod and green manure plowed 

 under, not to speak of the probably rich stores of all 

 plant foods already in the soil. If anything more were 

 needed to stimulate thrifty growth of plants, we advise 

 a light top dressing of well-composted hen manure. 

 Have the plants in rows not less than four feet apart, and 

 not less than two feet apart in the rows. For convenience 

 in cultivation they might even be set in check rows, four 

 feet apart each way. Remove every fruit stalk as soon 

 as it can be seen. Keep the ground well stirred up about 

 the plants. Remove the first few runners on each plant ; 

 then prepare thumb pots by filling them with a mixture 

 of clay loam and well rotted compost. As fast as a young 

 plant gets ready to throw out roots, set a thumb pot into 

 the soil under it, and keep the plant firmly in place upon 

 the pot by means of a little stone, a stick or a handful of 

 soil upon the runner stem next to it. Remove after the 

 plant has filled the pot with roots. — G. R. 



2648. Grape and Currant Cuttings. The proper 

 time for making cuttings is in autumn, just as soon as 

 the leaves have dropped. The currant cuttings should 

 be six or eight inches long. You can tie them in bundles 

 and bury them in sand or sawdust in the cellar, or pack 

 them in slightly damp moss. A still better way is to 

 plant them immediately. Select a well-drained spot of 

 rich mellow loam, and set the cuttings deep enough so 



