TRAVELS IN BRAZIL. ^271 



very often the only places which put a traveller in 

 mind of Europe, and of European accommodations. 

 The road runs in a direction of S.S.W. through low 

 land, into which the sea, at high water, penetrates 

 pretty far in some places. By the side of the road 

 stood several low palms, in full bloom, and filled 

 the air with a smell like spermaceti.* We lay down 

 to rest for the night on ox hides, which during the 

 day were spread over the cargoes of the mules, but 

 were now laid on the ground in the entry, which 

 was sparingly lighted by a lamp. The mules hav- 

 ing been fed with maize, in bags hung to their 

 heads, and led to drink in the next pool, were sent 

 to pasture. For this purpose, both here and on the 

 whole road to S. Paulo, they use either free open 

 spots, or places that are fenced in. In order that 

 the animals may not run away, and be immediately 

 found the next day, travellers generally prefer 

 putting them into enclosures, which are let on 

 very reasonable terms. When the meadow is not 

 fenced in, it is usual to secure the beasts, by tying 

 ropes to their fore feet. Meantime, our people 

 collected wood and water, and prepared the frugal 

 meal, consisting of dried beans, bacon, and dry 

 beef. The night was starry, but the firmament was 

 darker than in our European zone. The thermo- 



* In the East Indies the pollen of the cacao palm is used as 

 an aphrodisiacum. The component parts which Fourcroy found 

 in the date palm, (Annales du Mus. i. p. 417.) certainly indi- 

 cate the animal nature of this substance. 



