WRECK OF THE CHALLENGER. 63 



turn bottom up, when it proved to be nothing 

 more than a trough, in which they kept their 

 apples for making chiahi, or cider (a very com- 

 mon beverage amongst them) : after partially 

 cleaning it, stopping the holes with mud, they 

 floated it, and one of the women embarked, 

 and, with a long pole, shoved it up the river on 

 one side ; and when the river turned, she allowed 

 the current to sweep it across, which nothing but 

 her local knowledge of its windings could have 

 enabled her to accomplish. I was the first no- 

 minated by our guide to trust to this convey- 

 ance, and accordingly slid down the bank (for it 

 was impossible to walk), and introduced myself 

 to the goddess of the deep, by the friendly 

 Indian expression of ' Mai mai,' which serves 

 for ' how do you do ?* * good bye,' * very good,' 

 and is the beginning of every friendly convers- 

 ation. I embarked, after relieving myself of all 

 incumbrances, such as jacket, waistcoat, &c. thus 

 preparing myself to swim, if necessary ; and, 

 standing upright, balanced myself, much to the 

 satisfaction of my waterwoman, Mr. Lane and 

 Camilo (our guide) came over in the same way, 

 each bringing his saddle gear. Previous to em- 

 barkation our guide drove the horses into the 



