WRECK OF THE CHALLENGER. 67 



on a thickly wooded mountain, where we en- 

 countered many difficulties from the intricacies 

 of the passes, and the quantity of water we had 

 to wade through ; but as our guide knew this 

 part of the road much better than that of the 

 preceding day, we surmounted them all, and 

 reached the Indian punblo of Albarada at 9 

 o'clock. Here we went into a large rancho, 

 crowded with dirty figures of both sexes, and all 

 sizes ; besides a number of dogs, which were 

 kicked out, and a place near the fire cleared for 

 us. We sat down cross-legged, enjoying tobacco 

 and chichi, whilst supper was preparing, which 

 was soon done, as they appear to have the pot 

 always boiling, and also plenty of potatoes at 

 hand, which they prepare in the most dexterous 

 manner, with the edge of a muscle shell. Mean- 

 while the grey-headed dirty senora of the family 

 was engaged, with the guide, in cutting up one 

 of the halves of the sheep, and putting it into 

 the boiler with potatoes and ahi. In the course 

 of an hour it was served up in the usual way ; 

 and, after inviting the senor and seiiora of the 

 party, we brandished our muscle shells in style, 

 having become adepts in an art in which we were 

 novices but yesterday. W e made a hearty meal, 



