WRECK OF THE CHALLENGER. 



69 



friendly phrase, Mai, mai," which we obse- 

 quiously returned. Our guide told him the na- 

 ture of our expedition, and the cause of our 

 visit, when he immediately introduced us to the 

 inmates of his dwelhng (all women, the caciques 

 being allowed aplurality of wives). He despatched 

 his peons or servants for a horse, while we sat 

 by the fire smoking pajitas, or eating roasted 

 potatoes, occasionally making ourselves under- 

 stood by the women, to whom we offered some 

 snuff; which, from having been wet, was become 

 caked : this they readily accepted, and were 

 about to put it into the general receptacles ^ 

 when I stopped them, and made them understand 

 that it was not to be eaten, by taking a pinch 

 myself. They followed my example, but in a 

 most strange manner, by forcing it up their nos- 

 trils, and laughing hideously at the ridiculous 

 use thus made of their smelling apparatus, " 

 Being gratified with the pleasing excitement this 

 pungent powder produced, they begged me to 

 put some in a paper for them : this I was most 

 happy to do, as it was the first opportunity we 

 had (even in this small way) of showing our gra- 

 titude for the many and great kindnesses we had 

 received. My horse being brought and saddled, 



F 3 



