NOSSA SENHORA DA GUIA. 



143 



next morning. We then went to the house of an old Por- 

 tuguese trader, whom I had met in Barra, with whom we 

 supped and spent the evening. 



The next morning, after breakfasting with the Commandante, 

 we proceeded on our way. Above Sao Gabriel the rapids are 

 perhaps more numerous than below. We twisted about the 

 river, round islands and from rock to rock, in a most complicated 

 manner. On a point where we stayed for the night I saw the 

 first tree-fern I had yet met with, and looked on it with much 

 pleasure, as an introduction to a new and interesting district : 

 it was a small, thin-stemmed, elegant species, about eight or 

 ten feet high. At night, on the 22nd, we passed the last rapid, 

 and now had smooth water before us for the rest of our journey. 

 We had thus been four days ascending these rapids, which are 

 about thirty mikb' in length. The next morning we entered 

 the great and unknown river "Uaupes," from which there is 

 another branch into the Rio Negro, forming a delta at its 

 mouth. During our voyage I had heard much of this river 

 from Senhor L., who was an old trader up it, and well acquainted 

 with the numerous tribes of unciviKsed Indians which inhabit 

 its banks, and with the countless cataracts and rapids which 

 render its navigation so dangerous and toilsome. Above the 

 Uaupes the Rio Negro was calm and placid, about a mile, or 

 sometimes two to three miles wide, and its waters blacker 

 than ever. 



On the 24th of October, early in the morning, we reached 

 the little village of Nossa Senhora da Guia, where Senhor L. 

 resided, and where he invited me to remain with him as long 

 as I felt disposed. 



The village is situated on high ground sloping down suddenly 

 to the river. It consists of a row of thatched mud-huts, some 

 of them whitewashed, others the colour of the native earth. 

 Immediately behind are some patches of low sandy ground, 

 covered with a shrubby vegetation, and beyond is the virgin 

 forest. Senhor L.'s house had wooden doors, and shutters to 

 the windows, as had also one or two others. In fact, Guia was 

 once a very populous and decent village, though now as poor 

 and miserable as all the others of the Rio Negro. Going up 

 to the house I was introduced to Senhor L.'s family, which 

 consisted of two grown-up daughters, two young ones, and a 

 little boy of eight years old, A good-looking " mameluca," or 



