204 



TRAVELS ON THE RIO NEGRO, 



\June^ 



rounds, and then, at a signal of some sort, all left and retired 

 to their seat on stools or on the ground, till the time should 

 come for them again to take their places. The greater part of 

 them wore the " tanga," or small apron of beads, but some 

 were perfectly naked. Several wore large cylindrical copper 

 earrings, so polished as to appear like gold. These and the 

 garters formed their only ornaments, — necklaces, bracelets, 

 and feathers being entirely monopolised by the men. The 

 paint with which they decorate their whole bodies has a very 

 neat effect, and gives them almost the appearance of being 

 dressed, and as such they seem to regard it; and however 

 much those who have not witnessed this strange scene may 

 be disposed to differ from me, I must record my opinion that 

 there is far more immodesty in the transparent and flesh- 

 coloured garments of our stage-dancers, than in the perfect 

 nudity of these daughters of the forest. 



In the open space outside the house, a party of young men 

 and boys, who did not possess the full costume, were dancing 

 in the same manner. They soon, however, began what may be 

 called the snake dance. They had made two huge artificial 

 snakes of twigs and bushes bound together with sipos, from 

 thirty to forty feet long and about a foot in diameter, with a 

 head of a bundle of leaves of the Umbooba {Cecropia)^ painted 

 with bright red colour, making altogether a very formidable- 

 looking reptile. They divided themselves into two parties of 

 twelve or fifteen each, and lifting the snakes on their shoulders, 

 began dancing. 



In the dance they imitated the undulations of the serpent, 

 raising the head and twisting the tail. They kept advancing 

 and retreating, keeping parallel to each other, and every time 

 coming nearer to the principal door of the house. At length 

 they brought the heads of the snakes into the very door, but 

 still retreated several times. Those within had now concluded 

 their first dance, and after several more approaches, in came 

 the snakes with a sudden rush, and, parting, went one on the 

 right side and one on the left. They still continued the 

 advancing and retreating step, till at length, each having tra- 

 versed a semicircle, they met face to face. He^e the two 

 snakes seemed inclined to fight, and it was only after many 

 retreatings and brandishings of the head and tail, that they 

 could muster resolution to rush past each other, After one or 



