222 



TRAVELS ON THE RIO NEGRO. [September, 



which it would lick up with the greatest satisfaction, stopping 

 now and then, and looking knowingly round, as much as to say, 

 " This coffee is very good," and then sipping again with increased 

 gusto. The bird evidently liked the true flavour of the coffee, 

 and not that of the sugar, for it would cUmb up to the edge of 

 the coffee-pot, and hanging on the rim plunge boldly down 

 till only its little tail appeared above, and then drink the coffee- 

 grounds for five minutes together. The Indians in the canoe 

 delighted to imitate its pretty clear whistle, making it reply and 

 stare about, in a vain search after its companions. Whenever 

 we landed to cook, the Marianna was one of the first on shore, 

 — not with any view to an escape, but merely to climb up some 

 bush or tree and whistle enjoyment of its elevated position, for 

 as soon as eating commenced, it came down for a share of fish 

 or coffee. The more sober Anaca would generally remain 

 quietly in the canoe, till, lured by the cries and whistles of 

 its Hvely litde companion, it would venture out to join it ; 

 for, notwithstanding their difference of disposition, they were 

 great friends, and would sit for hours side by side, scratching 

 each other's heads, or playing together just like a cat and 

 a kitten ; the Marianna sometimes so exasperating the Anaca by 

 scratches and peckings, and by jumping down upon it, that a 

 regular fight would ensue, which, however, soon terminated, 

 when they would return to their former state of brotherhood. 

 I intended them as presents to two friends in Barra, but was 

 almost sorry to part them. 



On the 15th of September, exactly a fortnight after leaving 

 Sao Joaquim, we arrived safely at Barra. The whitened houses 

 and open situation of the city appeared quite charming, after 

 being so long accustomed to the mud-walled, forest-buried 

 villages of Rio Negro. I found that my friend Mr. Spruce 

 was in the city, being a prisoner there, as I had been at Guia, 

 for want of men. He occupied a house, made classic to the 

 Naturalist by having been the abode of Dr. Natterer, where he 

 kindly accommodated me during my stay, which I intended 

 should be as short as possible. 



Bad news was awaiting me from Para. Letters, dated 

 more than three months back, from my correspondent, Mr. 

 Miller, informed me of the dangerous illness of my brother, 

 who had been attacked by yellow fever ; and when the canoe 

 left, which brought the letter, was exhibiting such symptoms as 



