35 



ITALIAN ONIONS, 



The cultivation of Onions in our Southern 

 States increases rapidly in importance, so 

 that they form already a profitable crop, which 

 will soon come in active competition with 

 the famous Bermuda Onions in our Northern 

 markets. The climate and soil of Florida do 

 not differ so much from those of the Bermuda 

 Islands as not to make it highly probable that 

 Onions can be grown here as large and good 

 as there, or as in Mexico. 



The Italian mode of cultivation consists in 

 sowing the seed in the fall, transplanting the 

 young bulbs about four weeks later, and win- 

 tering in the open ground, so that they may 

 start and grow with the earliest spring. Our 

 own cultivators have adopted a similar plan. 

 One of the most extensive Onion-growers of 

 Florida writes: "A rich, moist soil is best. 

 The seed may be planted from September 

 till last of January, but I would recommend 

 October and November as the best time to 

 plant, provided good, fresh seed can be 

 secured. This, however, is the chief diffi- 

 culty. The seed has to be imported yearly 

 from the south of Europe, and, unless of best 

 quality, will not retain its vitality more than 

 one season, hence the almost impossibility of 

 getting good seed early. The early planting, 

 however, makes a firmer, more solid, and 

 more salable bulb than the later and quicker 

 growth. Plant in drills, six inches apart, 

 and when of sufficient size, transplant into 

 well-trenched ground, in rows one foot apart, 

 four inches in row. Koll ground after plant- 

 ing. Keep the soil well stirred between 

 rows, but not deep, and keep earth well away 

 from the plants, as the bulbs should be grown 

 above-ground. 



In some of our Southern States, the Weth- 

 ersfield, Danvers, and other Northern market 

 varieties have been grown successfully, but, 

 as a rule, the Italian kinds raised from im- 

 ported seed have proved more satisfactory. 



Nearly all the varieties grown in Italy, 

 Southern France, and Algiers originated in 

 Tripoli, North Africa, where the Onion is held 

 in higher esteem than any other vegetable, 

 and where it has been cultivated since the 

 earliest periods of historical record. To this 

 day, macaroni, bread, and Onions form the 

 principal food of the poorer classes of Italy. 



The nomenclature of the most popular va- 

 rieties is mostly derived ft'om the season of 

 the ripening of the bulbs. 



MAGGIAJOLA. 

 (Oiie-haM average size) 



Marsajola (March. Onion) ripens earliest, 

 is white, thin-skinned, of medium size, and 

 valued principally for its earliness. 



Maggiajola (May Onion) ripens next ; also 

 white, but larger, and used extensively for 

 pickling. 



Agostajola (August Onion) is the largest 

 and heaviest, and varies much in shape and 

 color. The bulbs grow to an almost incredible 

 size, and produce three to four stalks of some- 



times five to six feet in height, (limit Bocca, 

 Giant White Italian, and Bed Tripoli, the 

 celebrated Bermuda Onion, belong to this 

 class. 



PREVENTION OF THE POTATO DISEASE, 



In answer to several inquiries, we quote 

 from Mr. Bravender's treatise, " The Potato 

 Disease and How to Prevent it," although 

 some of the directions may not be so appli- 

 cable to our climate as to that of England. 



" Secure good seed, if you can, entirely 

 free from disease. Plant early — on light 

 land five inches, on heavy land three inches 

 deep — and earth up well. Have the rows 

 from two feet eight inches to three feet 

 apart in gardens, and three feet or more in 

 the field for late varieties ; may be rather 

 less for others. If there is danger of frost, 

 cover along the rows with short 

 litter, about enough to hide the 

 plants from view. Plant, if pos- 

 sible, in land not occupied by the 

 same crop the previous year, and 



I plant the late Muds, if possible, in /f-, 

 a field by themselves. Use medium (raH 

 size sets, or cut sets, if large ; place W M 

 twelve to eighteen inches apart in \§«fi 



| the row, according to size. Manure ^f|| 

 in autumn and use potash salts or 

 bone phosphate in the spring ; or 



| else make a compost of manure and 

 earth, ashes, etc. Earth up twice. 

 The tops may be cut off those re- 

 quired for seed if the tubers are 

 large enough. Harvest late kinds 

 sooner than is usually done. If there appears 

 any disease amongst the crop, sorting over 

 will be required. If you have the conven- 

 ience, store your crop for a time, and not 

 put in pits until November. On harvesting, 

 separate the diseased from the healthy ones." 



SPINACH, 



For winter and spring "Greens," Spinach 

 takes a front rank in every well-managed 

 kitchen-garden, and, in the vicinity of large 

 cities, it is also a- profitable crop for market. 



Spinach needs a deep, rich soil to produce 

 maximum crops, for it can only be grown 

 with profit on land that is well drained and 

 highly manured. For a succession, the seed 

 may be sown early in April and again in 

 May — for the principal crop from the first to 

 the middle of September, or late enough to 

 become about half -grown before cold weather 

 sets in. 



A piece of land from which a summer crop 

 has been taken is most suitable. Before 

 sowing, the ground should be well manured, 

 thoroughly pulverized, and the surface level- 

 ed. The rows are then marked out, twelve 

 to fifteen inches apart, with a garden ' ' mark- 

 er," or by stretching a line, and making drills 

 j with a hoe. The seed may be sown in the 

 I garden by hand, and in the field with a seed- 

 drill, using five or six pounds to the acre. 

 A quarter of a pound of seed will sow enough 

 for home use. With this, as with most other 

 seeds, it is important to firm the soil, after 

 covering, with a roller, or by packing with 

 a spade or board. As soon as the plants 

 are large enough, they should be hoed 

 and thinned out where too thick. What is 

 wanted for home use in midwinter should be 

 mulched lightly with salt hay, forest leaves, 

 or straw, to a depth of two or three inches ; 

 this is sufficient to protect the leaves from 

 injury by frost. Or if the Spinach has grown 

 1o full size in the fall, it may be kept very 

 well by cutting it, then placing it three or 

 four inches thick in a frame, and covering it 

 with a sash and a little rubbish. The cover- 

 ing of the open beds should not be removed 

 before the leaves commence to grow. 



The main crop is cut during April and 

 May. When the soil is rich, and proper care 

 has been given, a barrel of Spinach can be 

 cut from a square rod of ground. 



The Bointd-learctl is the most popular 

 variety for home use as well as for markets. 

 It is perfectly hardy, standing our severest 

 winters with but little injury, and is of the 

 best quality. 



The Prickly or Fall variety is said to be 

 more hardy than the round, although there 

 is but little difference in this respect. It is 



used principally for fall sowing, but does 

 equally well when sown in spring. 



Savoy-leaved has a large curled or crumpled 

 leaf like Savoy Cabbage, is very hardy, and 

 produces a heavier crop than the other sorts. 

 It is especially adapted for late fall sowing. 



