8 



THE AMERICAN GARDEN. 



[January, 



vm ml fjanilscape, 



BORDERS 01 SHRUBS. 



Many gardens are too much exposed. It 

 has recently become fashionable to remove 

 fences, and grounds thus opened might as 

 well be public property. There is no seclu- 

 sion or privacy, and every movement about 

 the garden can be observed. One of the 

 charms of a garden is the air of seclusion 

 which should prevail there. To secure that 

 privacy which all who are fond of gardening 

 certainly desire, we would suggest the plant- 

 ing of a border inside the fence. This bor- 

 der can bo varied in depth, according to the 

 size of the garden. It should be a little higher 

 than the lawn, and the outer line should con- 

 sist of graceful curves. In this border can 

 be planted a variety of shrubs, dwarf coni- 

 fers, hardy plants, etc., but no trees. The 

 shrubs and conifers should be planted irreg- 

 ularly, from three to four feet apart — the 

 taller ones nearest the fence, and the dwarf 

 subjects near the margin. For a border six 

 feet in depth I would suggest two rows of 

 shrubs, the first consisting of the larger- 

 growing ones, like Weigelia, Deutzia, For- 

 sythia, Japan Quince, Viburnum, Cornus 

 Variegated, Bed Dogwood, Tartarian Honey- 

 suckle, Lance-leaved Spiraea, Syringa, Al- 

 thaea, Calycanthus, Plum-leaved Spiraea, 

 Barberry, Dwarf Spruce, Pine, and Juniper. 



For the second row, Deutzia gracilis, Mez- 

 ereon, Dwarf and Golden-leaved Syringa, 

 Tree Paeonies, Dwarf Double-flowering Al- 

 mond, Prunus triloba, Dwarf Weigelia, Fort- 

 une's Dwarf White Spiraea, Plumed Hydran- 

 gea, Spiraea Thunbergii, Juniperus squamata, 

 and Tamarisk-leaved Juniper. The outer 

 edge can be formed of Funkias, Dwarf Phlox, 

 Japan Spiraea, Evergreen Candy-tuft, Peren- 

 nial Phlox, Forget-me-not, Lungwort, Soap- 

 wort, Sea Pink, Sweet Violets. 



Between the shrubs, near the front, may be 

 planted Lilies, Tall Phlox, and occasionally 

 Hollyhocks. 



All the shrubs and plants which I have 

 named are perfectly hardy, and if properly 

 pruned can be kept of moderate size and 

 good form. This selection will furnish a 

 constant succession of bloom from early 

 spring till late in the autumn. 



The border should be lightly forked every 

 autumn, and all the plants contained in it 

 will be much benefited thereby. 



In small gardens this border may be omit- 

 ted altogether, and those who desire their 

 gardens more exposed can, instead of a fence, 

 plant a few shrubs irregularly — allowing the 

 grass to grow quite closely around them. 

 When fences have been removed along an 

 entire street or avenue, the lines of each lot 

 may be marked by planting shrubs, in this 

 way relieving the lawn of that nakedness 

 which would otherwise prevail. 

 . Shrubs grown in a cultivated border thrive 

 much better than they do grown in grass, and 

 the border is, therefore, preferable. 



Borders like the one above referred to may 

 be formed at the sides of the garden, conceal- 

 ing division fences, if there be any. In these 

 borders a great many varieties of shrubs may 

 be employed, which during the summer will 

 afford an unlimited amount of pleasure. In 

 the smallest gardens this mode of planting 

 may be adopted, leaving the center of the 

 lawn open, without a single tree or shrub. 



Fine effects may be produced if neighbors 

 would unite and form a double border instead 

 of fences, planting the taller shrubs at the 

 center, and the smaller ones at the outside, 

 varying the sky outline by the introduction of 

 a tree at intervals. In these side borders it 

 is always well to employ shrubs that will not 

 become too large, though any shrub by proper 

 pruning can be kept small. This is the great 

 advantage we have in dealing with shrubs, 

 and when we find that they become so large 

 as to conceal too much, they can easily be cut 

 back. While a certain amount of privacy is 

 very desirable, it is not pleasant to be too 

 much confined, and in arranging these bor- 

 ders this point must be kept in view. 



In medium-sized places, a few trees may be 

 planted on the lawn. These should have a 

 position at the side, rather than in front, as 

 the view from the windows of the house 

 should never be interfered with. Often only 

 a single tree can be admitted — perhaps 

 a handsome Cut-leaved Birch, Oak-leaved 

 Mountain Ash, Purple Beech, Cut-leaved 

 Beech, Youngs's Weeping Birch, or Weeping 

 Cherry. All of these form beautiful speci- 

 mens, and if a little care is bestowed upon 

 them, each one when it attains age will be a 

 picture in itself, always attractive and pleas- 

 ing. Sometimes shade is required, in which 

 case it is necessary to plant large-growing 

 trees within twenty feet of the house. I know 

 of no tree which affords shade so quickly and 

 withal is so handsome as the superb Elm. 

 Groups of dwarf conifers may be introduced 

 on lawns, such as the dwarf Norway Spruce, 

 the lovely Juniper, compact Arbor Vitae, 

 Tamarisk-leaved Juniper, Dwarf Pine, and 

 Golden Yew. All of these are hardy, and 

 when planted three together irregularly, or 

 in the shape of a triangle, from three to five 

 feet apart, will in time look pretty. In small 

 grounds it is difficult without seeing them to 

 say where these groups should be located. 

 The situation must be studied, and nature 

 imitated as far as possible. 



Thus far I have not referred to flower-beds in 

 la wns. It is a common practice to make beds 

 of Geraniums in the center of a lawn. If the 

 style of gardening which I have suggested be 

 carried out, a flower-bed of this kind would 

 be out of place. 



Geraniums and other bedding plants may 

 be employed to advantage close to the house, 

 and can be cultivated either in beds or in 

 borders. A fine border of mixed plants, con- 

 sisting of Tea Roses, Heliotrope, Double 

 Feverfew, with Coleus and Centaureas inter- 

 mingled, presents a beautiful appearance, 

 and is very useful for cut-flowers. Being near 

 the house they are easily accessible, and do 

 not detract from the beauty of a lawn. The 

 edges of groups and borders of shrubs are 

 beautified by the use of such plants. We 

 cannot admire great masses of Geraniums, 

 but employed as they should be, they enliven 

 a garden, and may be considered indispensa- 

 ble. — Wm. C.Barry, in an address before the 

 American Association of Nurserymen. 



Evergreens planted singly on the lawn, or 

 in natural groups, not too near the dwelling, 

 appear to best advantage in winter, when 

 deciduous trees and shrubs are defoliated. 

 Plans for future plantings of this kind can be 

 made now better than at any other season ; 

 groups should be marked out and stakes 

 driven in the ground where trees are to be 

 planted. 



AND GREENHOUSE. 



WINTERING HOUSE-PLANTS. 



No branch of the gardening art is attended 

 with more varying success than the care of 

 house-plants during the winter season. Some 

 persons seem to have an intuition as to their 

 proper treatment, and are invariably suc- 

 cessful, having not only plants with healthy 

 foliage, but also a fair show of bloom to 

 enliven the winter months, while others 

 equally anxious, and sparing no pains to 

 attain the same result, are unsuccessful. A 

 suitable selection of plants for the purpose 

 of house-culture is of the first importance. 

 For a beginning, I would recommend Aza- 

 leas, which, although nearly or quite de- 

 ciduous, amply repay for this defect by their 

 lovely flowers. Almost any of them are good, 

 but none are better for hardihood, robust 

 growth, and showy flowers than the old Azalea 

 alba and A. phenicia. Begonias are exceed- 

 ingly useful winter-flowering plants. The 

 best for the purpose are B. Weltoniensis, B. 

 Saundersi, B. nitida, B. glaucophylla, and 

 B. hybrida floribunda. Zonale Geraniums, of 

 course, will be included, but some of these 

 are preferable to others for winter flowering. 

 The new Ivy-leaved Geraniums should also 

 be included. Fuchsias in general are not to 

 be recommended, excepting F. speciosa and a 

 few other allied winter-blooming sorts. Oxalis 

 floribunda is a very pretty species, giving a 

 profusion of flowers throughout the season. 

 The list can be extended by including monthly 

 Carnations, Cyclamens, Abutilons, Epiphyl- 

 lums, Jasminum grandiflorum, etc. 



Plants intended for house-culture should 

 be repotted and well established in the 

 autumn, before the season for housing them, 

 in order to secure the best conditions for 

 flowering. The necessity of giving them 

 fresh air every fine day is well understood, 

 but oftentimes great injury instead of bene- 

 fit results from the manner in which it is 

 done — by raising the window. A draught of 

 dry air, not unfrequently much colder than 

 the ordinary temperature of the room, strik- 

 ing the pots, quickly dries them up, and, chill- 

 ing the roots, gives a sudden check to the 

 growth of the plant, causing its leaves and 

 buds to shrivel up and drop off. Where ven- 

 tilation has to be given by raising the win- 

 dow, instead of lowering it, the pots should 

 be protected by placing a piece of board in 

 front of them where it is possible to do so. 

 But, when plants are placed on a stand, one 

 above another, where that mode would be 

 impracticable, the current of dry air could be 

 arrested by having a wire screen, such as is 

 now largely used as a protection against flies 

 and mosquitoes, placed in the window. Where 

 saucers are used under the pots, care should 

 be taken that no amount of water should re- 

 main in them after thoroughly watering the 

 plants. This rule, however, does not apply 

 to Callas and other aquatic plants. Even 

 when Abutilons, and other strong-growing 

 plants, have filled their pots full of roots and 

 require a great deal of water, it is better to 

 supply them frequently than to have them 

 standing in a pool. Care must also be taken 

 in watering plants not to use the water cold, 

 as it comes from the well or cistern, but to 

 add sufficient hojt water to raise the temper- 



